Drawer Finishing routine for dovetailed drawers

[sroxberg]

I recently made some inset drawer fronts with half blind dovetails on the front, and through dovetails on the rear.

I had sanded the parts to 80 grit to remove planner marks but not to a final sanding.

After sanding the fit of the half blind dovetails changed a bit, duh.

So in the future I'm considering finish sanding all of the parts and possibly even applying a coat of finish or two.

What do others do?

[Cooler]

I've made several drawers over the years. Years ago I used to use brushing lacquer for drawers (it dries fast). The smell was too oppressive. Nowadays I use shellac. It dries fast too.

I sand the board before cutting the dovetails and I finish sanding after assembly.

The finish never affected my fit of the drawers but I always used metal track drawer hardware.

[mikeny]

Actual this weekend (with all the snow coming) I'm doing (6) inset drawers with through dovetails in the front and back. I'm using 1/2 inch plywood. I did a dry run with one drawer (last week). I applied a clear finish to the plywood before I cut all the drawer parts. I'm using a Rockler Dove Tail jig to make the dovetail. I found using painters tape before routing made a big difference preventing tear out. Last time I'm using plywood for drawers. If I had to do it over I would use solid 5/8 wood.

[Danny in Houston]

I have found that sanding after assembly helps hide minor mistakes, as the sawdust fills cracks and imperfections. I use shellac on every surface except for the drawer fronts, where I often add a coat of lacquer. You can avoid putting shellac on the end grain of the drawer fronts to keep that wood lighter, or add to end grain to make it darker.

I don't sand too heavily - I like to leave some hand planing marks behind for someone who might actually recognize them, they will be pleased.

I also rub bees wax along the bottom of the runners, then vigorously rub it slick.

[Cooler]

mikeny said:

---

Actual this weekend (with all the snow coming) I'm doing (6) inset drawers with through dovetails in the front and back. I'm using 1/2 inch plywood. I did a dry run with one drawer (last week). I applied a clear finish to the plywood before I cut all the drawer parts. I'm using a Rockler Dove Tail jig to make the dovetail. I found using painters tape before routing made a big difference preventing tear out. Last time I'm using plywood for drawers. If I had to do it over I would use solid 5/8 wood.

---

My Porter Cable jig recommends a light horizontal scoring cut prior to making the dovetails and that pretty much eliminates all the tear out. There are videos on line that show the technique. It is very quick and I think easier than tape.

[mikeny]

Scoring before cutting the dovetails with the the dovetail jig sounds like a great idea. Can't wait to try it thanks!

[Curlycherry]

I'm fortunate I have the Grizzly widebelt. All pieces get put through the widebelt with 120 grit to get to the exact same thickness. Then ends are masked off and DTs cut. Drawer is assembled and then touched up lightly with an edge sander with 150 grit. Then light sanding 150, 180 and 220 and then finishing.

I often make drawers that go into boxes with no slides, just a 1/8" gap tolerance. The same method I apply above is used but I oversize the box 1/16" before making my DTs. Then I use the edge sander to fit the drawer in the opening for the 1/8" tolerance.

[Gary™]

I seen some guys finish the tails and drawer front together. The tail portion of the side being finished differently form the rest of the side. Not sure why

[RLMillard]

I hand plane the inner faces of the drawer stock. Then the joints are laid out and cut. After the joints are cut, I sand lightly with 320 paper, to remove handling marks. Then a coat of shellac is wiped on with a paper towel. Once that is dry I scuff sand and apply a coat of wax. During the finishing process, care has to be taken to not contaminate the glue surface. Now the drawer can be glued together.

Rob Millard
www.americanfederalperiod.com