Help mounting a Veritas Lee Valley steel router table top

[Matthew Williams]

I just bought the top from Kansas City Fire Slayer and I want to mount it in my Grizzly 1023 cabinet table saw. I was hoping someone has already figured out how to mount it and I can copy it. The only ideas I have so far will look bad and probably not work well.
Thanks in advance!

[Dennis Puskar]

Could you give us a pic so we can see what problem is ?

[dry heat]

Try calling LV they might have a copy or the owners manual. It has information on how to mount the top. If not I have one and will copy it for you. I have one with all the accessories and intend to put it up for sale when I get it dug out of the shed. If I remember correct there are a couple of pins that fit into the recommended frame and it allows you to pick the top up to change bits ect.
ES

[Steve N]

The top in question is this one it is a discontinued item from LV, and OP got it at a good price. That top has build instructions (IN BLUE INK) on the web page, and was designed for a free standing router table/stand or as tilt top bench topper

This is the S&S page though because of retention it won't be around a long time.


Essentially what you have is a flat metal router top. A lot will depend on what configuration you have on your table saw right now. IE: 20, 26, 50, or larger to the right of the saw blade. It will also depend on what type of framework that is supported on. It is possible you will need to remove some of, or all of what you have, or build onto your TS top and extend it to the right, so you can get the top to lie flat to your saws surface, and support the router top. Making a separate fence, or using the back side of your TS fence will also need to be addressed.

There are plenty of plans, and ways to get this done

Google images many of these pictures if you open them, and click "visit page" to the side of the pic will take you to a page where that entire table was built, some are just a solo pic.

I apologize up front for forwarding images, so of which I got from Google. For me it's the quickest way to put it in a pic, and to address several possible options while knowing little about your actual TS situation. Evidently this really irks at least one member.

Good luck. No matter how you decide to progress you just want the top to be level with your TS top, so your TS fence can move freely across the router top when not in use. If you posted a pic of your TS as it sits right now, I'm sure you will get plenty of suggestions.

[EvilTwin]

It's a flat piece of steel so you need something to mount it to the side of the tablesaw top or onto one of the wings. Best thing I can think of would be to get a piece of angle iron and drill it to match the holes in the side of the top or drill new holes onto the extension wing if you want to use that. The top of the angle iron will be lower than the top of the saw by whatever the thickness of the router top is, so it will sit flush when finished.

To attach the top to the angle iron, you can either weld it or drill several holes for some bolts, making sure to chamfer the holes and to use bolts that will be flush when installed. On the other end, you will need to fabricate some sort of support for the outboard end. Most larger tops use a separate set of legs, or one leg tied into the mobile base so you can move the whole thing together.

Post some pix of the saw and top and give us some more details on whether you plan on using an extension wing or going off the top directly. HTH.



According to LV:

Quote:

---

Many router tables claim to be flat, and some even are, until you mount a router to them and they suddenly become concave. Each Veritas® router table top is a 16" x 24" steel plate that has been hand tuned to have a slight upward curve. This curve is specifically set so that the weight of the router cannot deform the router table to concave. When used with routers up to 10 lb, the Veritas router table top will always be slightly convex, with the highest point adjacent to the bit, so your depth of cut will always be exactly as set. Because the plate is steel, it will not sag over time, as many laminate tables will.

---

So there may be a wee bit of bulge in the middle that you will have to account for. If you bolt or weld it to the angle iron directly, that will probably flatten it out unless you use some shims. If you build a support or support it all around, that may not be an issue since it was originally designed as a stand alone top.

[oakey]

Matthew
I have that same L/V plate I had it mounted in a delta unisaw wing I did not want to cut original top so I made a replica top and set the original aside
I used a sheet of particle board and a partial sheet of counter top laminate
set the plate on the top and traced it out cut it out a half inch smaller and recessed it with a plunge router and a top brg. pattern bit.
simply letting the bit follow a straight edge the straight edge was a sheet of Baltic birch so I had a stable area to place the router I just clamped it to the traced line
I did add some extra support I used wood but any thing will work angle iron ETC
you need the support as the plate is so large that it takes out a lot of area in your top
it worked out good and I used it for 5/6 years like that then I moved to a much larger shop and made a stand alone table for the top and replaced the unisaws with the original that I saved
I am not familiar with the grizzly saw but if it is similar you should have no problem doing that
I really like the L/V plate I was sorry to see it discontinued

[Matthew Williams]

Thanks everyone, I'm going to try working on it today. I'll let you know how it turns out.

[Matthew Williams]

We'll it was a bit harder than I thought but it is in and works great.

[Matthew Williams]

We'll it was a bit harder than I thought but it is in and works great.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/23274539@N...ed-public/