Suggestion for gouge/chisel type needed

[Bencuri]

I have to carve a pit into a wood block. The pit will be rounded in cross section, 1 inch deep at its centre, and will be about 4 inch in diameter measured on the surface. So practically the shape of a slice of a ball. What is the appropriate gouge/chisel type for this kind of project?

[wmickley]

For this work I would use two gouges, one very close to your final curve for finishing and one with quite a bit more curve to remove bulk waste. I usually use a mallet with the gouge for roughing and use two hands on the gouge for finishing. You don't want the edges of your gouges to dig in.

Warren

[Guest]

Consider a "crook" or "bent" knife. They are designed for hollowing. They do an excellent job of it and are easy to use.

[Timberwolf]

A hook knife is a good choice, as Hank suggested, or a "front bent" spoon gouge...

[blackhat]

Make a full size scale sectional drawing. Measure the diameter at various depths and waste out as much as you can with Forstner bits or establish marks with hole saws.

[Bencuri]

Thanks for your suggestions!

What about this one?

http://www.leevalley.com/US/Wood/page.as...&cat=1,130,43332,43703,58812

[blackhat]

Yes, the 5 sweep gouges should be fine. It would be nice to have both but if only one is in the budget, get the wider one.

[Bibliophile 13]

The 5-sweep gouge should work fine; get at least a 3/4" if not a full 1" wide one. But if you're just buying this for occasional use, then the hook knife may be cheaper. Both tools take some practice to master. Don't listen to the books that say to cut only with the grain; both tools work much better across the grain, though at some point in the carving process you have to do both. But they have to be absolutely razor sharp to cut well. Strop frequently to keep the edge keen.

The firmer gouges from Lee Valley are a good value. Going up the price scale from there, Ashley Iles are very good. The Pheil gouges are more expensive yet but absolutely wonderful in terms of edge holding.

One more point on use of these tools: the hook knife is made for lap-carving, and it works best as a one-handed tool as you hold the workpiece in your hand. It's not as easy to use with the workpiece clamped in a vise. The gouge is a two-handed tool and works best with the work secured to the benchtop or in a vise. (Watch an introductory Mary May video to see how to hold and use a gouge properly.)

One more thing: it's unlikely you will end up with a perfectly finished surface from just a hook knife or gouge. It's possible, but it takes a lot of practice. A curved card scraper works wonders in taking out tool marks. A gooseneck scraper would be a good idea here. It will save you a lot of time and frustration in sanding.

[Bencuri]

I have checked how to work with the hook knife, and though it is very practical, I concluded for the type of work what I will do, it will be better to clamp the workpiece and use a chisel.

I am seriously considering the firmer gouges at Lee Valley. But I also found these Hirsch straight gouges:

Hirsch Straight Gouge

It seems to me this latter one is becoming wider and wider towards its tip, while the "firmer gouges" seems even in width all along the blade. Does it make sense in case of my project, so when you want to carve a concave bowl-like pit into a block of wood?

[DCarr10760]

Unless your bowl shape is very shallow, the straight back of the tool can interfere with a clean excavation of the bowl. Fortunately they also sell spoon gouges and bent gouges. For your purposes I think the spoon gouge might be the better choice. The bent gouges being better for larger work. But since your bowl is 4-inches across, either will work and would be better than a straight gouge.

David C.