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Location: Pacifc North Wet --AKA WA
I have the earlier Beall wood threading kit with left and right-handed 1/2", 3/4", and 1" dies and taps. Also bought the JR Beall's soft cover how-to-do-it book, nut template, and dowel making accessory kit to shop fabricate a better quality dowel than what I could purchase locally. Back-In-the-Day, I 'wuz gonna' make a whole bunch of stuff with wood threads. Thought it was going to the bee’s knees and the cat’s meow!
In my limited experience:
-- Router bit depth projection is very important. Have excess dowel stock on hand to use as scrap stock to set depth.
-- Dowel wood species and correct diameter are very critical. Correct diameter hardwood dowel stock works best and will save a great deal of frustration. Most lumber yard dowels are not a hardwood and often are ill-sized to work well. Undersized will not work!
-- Non hardwood dowels-- again, in my experience -- will not thread well.
I found that it was more trouble to set up and as a result and never really utilized it much at all. Eventually lost interest and packed it away. Probably should sell it to someone who wants the complete package. Anyone have any idea as to what it all would be worth??
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I have an old no name wood tap and die set.The only tip I can give you is to wax the dowel lightly before threading.Also make the bore for the nut slightly oversize,keeps the thread crests from breaking.
I have 3/4,1-1/2 and 2-1/4 " taps and dies.
These were my grandfathers,he may have made them himself.
The 2-1/4" set was used twice,made vice screws.This set actually made threads easier than the 3/4" set for some reason.
mike
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I have an older set also and used to use it quite often. It has been a couple years now that I have not made these clocks but they are very good sellers. I made many of these and used hardwood dowels of varied species. Mixed and matched. People love the combination maple and walnut the most.
Ray gave you very good advice. The one thing I suggest is get the reamer. It makes a world of difference for the finished look. I leave my router dedicated for this task. Yes it takes a little to dial in the correct depth but it is easy. The sander jig is also very important for the look. Again set it and lock it in place and do not move it. Take good notes and keep them.
One other suggestion would be to put some CA glue on the threads after you cut them to give them strength. Both on the bolt and nut. Have fun and then make a few of these and watch them sell.
John T.
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Location: Suburb of Los Angeles
I forget what's in the instructions so pardon if this is a repeat.
Make the nut first. That way you can use the actual nut to adjust the router bit depth for making the bolt.
Wiping the dowel with DNA before threading can help the router bit cut cleanly.
If the nut and bolt are going to be finished with BLO, a layer of cured BLO on the dowel will also help the router bit cut cleanly.
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Location: IA
Mike
My wife and daughters got me all of them from 1/2" up to the 1 1/2" and I have used the largest and the 3/4" ones. Once you have the bit set up right make a round template that is just the height of the point so you can set it the proper depth every time for just that size so you will not have to go up and down or trying every time you go to another size.
They do work in any wood you wish to get done. On a few of them like Red Ceder making the dowel and the hole I had to add thin CA glue before during and after the threads are made or they will break off. I also had to add CA glue on soft maple when making the hole also to keep the threads hard and I did the reaming again and CA again just to make sure the threads were permanent. I use it everyday and they still work great.
I also like Ray bought JR Beall's soft cover how-to-do-it book, nut template, and dowel making accessory kit and glad I did to.
If you want anymore info just ask
Arlin
As of this time I am not teaching vets to turn. Also please do not send any items to me without prior notification. Thank You Everyone.
It is always the right time, to do the right thing.
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Keeping the dowel level as you feed it helps keep the threads an even thickness.
Fashioning a turning handle that slips on the end of the dowel helps you turn it more consistently. I think that is in the book or in the directions, can't remember.
Take a quick look at youtube and watch metal lathe guys turn their handwheel on their compound while they are making a cut. They have a method of keeping both hands on the handwheel that keeps the pressure on the cutter really consistent.
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