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I'm no expert but I think multiple applications of shellac, wet sanded will fill the grain. For these pieces that will be abused I don't think I would go to the trouble. Consider just shellac for the finish - the repair is just more shellac - about a 15 minute job. With a tough topcoat, repairs are more difficult - mostly you get to strip the pieces and start over. Just a thought.
Thanks, Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
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Seems to me that filling (or not) the grain is a matter of personal taste. My wife believes everything should be baby butt smooth, but I like to see the pores on some wooden pieces.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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If it's new to you , keep it simple.
Wipe on a coat or 2 of Seal a Cell to bring out the color of the Mahogany then topcoat with a few easy wipe on coats of Arm r Seal.
It's easy peasy and will be tough as nails.
I would not worry with filling the grain.
My 2 ¢
Rusty
Poppa's Woodworks
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Generally a grain filler diminishes the grain and tends to make the piece look plastic. IMHO they are only desirable in a very few cases. e.g. on Oak or other open grain woods when the surface will be used for writing etc.
If the surface seems rough after sanding to 320 grit then another coat of shellac may be needed.
Shellac is the easiest finish to repair, but the waterborne finishes are very easy as well. Just scuff sand a little and apply more finish. You will need to sand to the same grit as the rest of the finish after the repair has cured.
BTW Arm-R-Seal is an excellent finish and you don't need shellac under it, unless you want to change the color of the wood. But it cures slowly and is a PITA to apply compared to shellac or waterborne.
Do test whatever finish schedule you decide on on some scrap to make shure that you like it.
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