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Pretty much any alcohol will work with shellac. There is a slight difference between the cheaper DNA and the premium brands like klean strip green or BEHLEN BEHKOL, but the premium is not really worth it. I buy USP Ethanol in quantity from Aaper, it is lower toxicity and dissolves more shellac per volume a bit faster than DNA. But unless you can buy in 55 gallon lots it is much more expensive (~$40¹ [5gal lots] versus $40 for the premium [retail /gal bought in quarts] versus Everclear in 1.75L for ~$30² versus hardware store DNA ~$8/gallon)³. BTW Methanol and isopropyl alcohol will work just fine. But they are more toxic—particularly methyl—and don't dissolve as much shellac/volume—they are quite a bit cheaper though.
Least you be tempted to buy E85 don't do it! It is much more toxic and highly flammable as well as occasionally explosive. Further while it may work fine sometimes, the same brand may produce off colors or fail to dry properly other times. Gasoline is not a chemical but a mixture of chemicals which changes with the season and the brand.
¹ Includes excise tax (it's booze) and HAZMAT shipping.
² Local liquor store price. ~$60/gallon.
³ All except local purchase include HAZMAT shipping. Local sources can get HAZMAT shipped in for a small fraction of what UPS or FedEx charge.
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weelis said:
Pretty basic question, but is there a difference in the DNA sold when it comes to making up ones shellac? Have heard various reports but thought it best to go to the experts. IOW, what is best dna to use? Thnx.
I use Zinnser Seal coat for my shellac most of the time but when I do mix my own I have been using methanol. You can get 5 gallons for about $35 or a gallon for around $6. One of the best restoration guys I have ever known uses it instead of DNA. He does restorations for quite a few museums and the major big money auction houses. If it is good enough for him it is good enough for me.
