#20
For those of you with cambered jack or jointer blades, specifically for edge jointing, how much camber do you prefer?

Thanks.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


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#21
I haven't done it in a while but it seems like I put a 12" radius camber on my jointer. I don't think there is really a need to though. If all you are doing is jointing, dead square would probably be best. Flattening is where you want a camber so the corners don't dig on the side of the pass you make.
---------------------------------------------------
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#22
Axehandle said:


I haven't done it in a while but it seems like I put a 12" radius camber on my jointer. I don't think there is really a need to though. If all you are doing is jointing, dead square would probably be best. Flattening is where you want a camber so the corners don't dig on the side of the pass you make.




Thanks. That was my MO for years. Then I read Charlesworth, who pointed out that with a cambered you can correct for non-square by shifting the plane laterally.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#23
For the jointer, I would want much less camber then a jack plane. I will not grind in camber, but will use enough rocking nothing on the stones to induce a little bit. It does help to square up an edge. You only have to adjust the position of the plane bed to get square.

With a square edge, you could use the lateral level to correct for out of square edges, and I have tried that, but I found a slightly cambered edge much easier.
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#24
I agree with scooney. It's much easier to get a square edge with a cambered jointer. I put a bit more on it than a smoother but no where near as much as a jack. I too tend to camber it on the stones.

Jonathan


I only regret the tools I didn't buy!

“Think about it: Everything with a power cord eventually winds up in the trash.” John Sarge
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#25
I must be missing something. How can you possibly joint a square edge with a rounded iron?
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#26
We're spllitting hairs but as cambered iron produces slightly concave edge all depends on camber. As Peter said a flat blade = better glue joint.
.
Personal preference but I don't like a camber on a jointer plane at all I just ease the edges. I don't see what use a 12" camber would be.
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#27
Scoony said:


With a square edge, you could use the lateral level to correct for out of square edges...




You lost me here...





Seriously -- thanks everyone for the suggestions.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#28
Scoony said:


For the jointer, I would want much less camber then a jack plane. I will not grind in camber, but will use enough rocking nothing on the stones to induce a little bit. It does help to square up an edge. You only have to adjust the position of the plane bed to get square.

With a square edge, you could use the lateral level to correct for out of square edges, and I have tried that, but I found a slightly cambered edge much easier.




+1
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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#29
I don't camber my jointer when I edge joint because I usually joint two boards together for edge jointing and then glue ups.

For the jointer when I use it to flatten a panel then I put a just enough camber to not leave plane tracks with a fairly heavy cut. I'm not even sure what the radius is because I have a BU jointer and I cambered that blade a long time ago.
Peter

My "day job"
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How much camber?


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