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Why don't you simply hang suspended ceiling tracks instead of hard mounting the tile? Clearance?
WoodNET... the new safespace
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I doubt you will find a washer head that has a large enough washer to keep te screw from digging through the tile, they are very soft. But if you used something like
this and controlled your drill ver carefully, I think the washers on those screws would hold the tile in place. Holding them up after you screw them down will be just as important. As for the furring strips, I'd do just as you suggest although a purist would probably find the center of the room and start from there.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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" I’m not sure how to start to make sure the tiles are square. Do I just measure from one side and snap a line ? There must be some method to make that process easier. I know if I don’t start it right, it will be a big mess as I move along."
You have just described why ceiling tiles are set into a frame, hung from the joists. I doubt if you are concerned enough to ask how here, that you will be happy with what you get just screwing them on.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrBWCwtlUT4Renting the laser level is $$$$ well spent.
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GW
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Fender washers.
Home Depot It'll look like crap but if it is just for utilitarian purposes, who cares. Spray them white first.
RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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ive only done ceiling tiles a coule times but when i did i started in the center of the room. measure length along opposing walls, find center, snap a line down center of ceiling and start there.
and since limited funds, if you have a hole saw you could make washers out of 1/4" ply
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You can't assume that the bottom of the joists are co-planar. You will need to be sure to identify the lowest part of the ceiling then level from there. Laser level or water level will work. Once you put the 2x2 tiles in place any irregularity in level will be readily apparent, same with bulges and twists. So be ready to cut long tapered shims. I used a track saw to make the long shims. Work carefully since going cheap in this case also risks a quality job. You don't want to be left with a room that makes you feel ill because the floor/ceiling/walls are outta whack. I did a room using tin ceiling tiles nailed to the ceiling.... there was a lot of shim fussing to make it come out right. I wish I had done a better job with the rolled tin edging meeting the irregularities of the walls. When laying out your center line make the far side of the room (from the most used entry point) the primary view such that any irregularity in square ends up behind the viewer. It is a lot like laying a tile floor, start with square and level and all will be well.
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