Workshop ceiling question

[digger]

I need some help with my basement ceiling. I have a lot of 2x2 ceiling tiles, that I would like to attach to the joists. I thought I would run furring strips perpendicular to the joists and then attached the tiles to the strips.
I need some type of large "washer" to keep the screw from penetrating too far.
Also, I’m not sure how to start to make sure the tiles are square. Do I just measure from one side and snap a line ? There must be some method to make that process easier. I know if I don’t start it right, it will be a big mess as I move along.

[Splinter Puller]

Why don't you simply hang suspended ceiling tracks instead of hard mounting the tile? Clearance?

[fredhargis]

I doubt you will find a washer head that has a large enough washer to keep te screw from digging through the tile, they are very soft. But if you used something like this and controlled your drill ver carefully, I think the washers on those screws would hold the tile in place. Holding them up after you screw them down will be just as important. As for the furring strips, I'd do just as you suggest although a purist would probably find the center of the room and start from there.

[digger]

Thanks for the responses. Yes, I have a low ceiling, and limited funds.
I was searching around this morning, and came across Ceiling Button Plaster Washers. I think that might work. They even have white plastic ones.

[Steve N]

" I’m not sure how to start to make sure the tiles are square. Do I just measure from one side and snap a line ? There must be some method to make that process easier. I know if I don’t start it right, it will be a big mess as I move along."

You have just described why ceiling tiles are set into a frame, hung from the joists. I doubt if you are concerned enough to ask how here, that you will be happy with what you get just screwing them on.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jrBWCwtlUT4


Renting the laser level is $$$$ well spent.

[Richard D.]

Fender washers. Home Depot

It'll look like crap but if it is just for utilitarian purposes, who cares. Spray them white first.

[OldGuyDrummer]

Another option:

Gets some 1x2 furring strips and route two rabbits along along one side to make a "T" Strip. Paint the strips white and use them to hold up the ceiling tiles in the same fashion as a normal "T" metal ceiling grid would support the tiles. You then screw the furring strips to the underside of the joist and you don't have to drill through the ceiling tiles. Furring strips are cheap.

[tomsteve]

ive only done ceiling tiles a coule times but when i did i started in the center of the room. measure length along opposing walls, find center, snap a line down center of ceiling and start there.
and since limited funds, if you have a hole saw you could make washers out of 1/4" ply

[fixtureman]

I always measure the room then split it in half that way your borders are the same. Remember that ceiling tile are under sized.

[jppierson]

You can't assume that the bottom of the joists are co-planar. You will need to be sure to identify the lowest part of the ceiling then level from there. Laser level or water level will work. Once you put the 2x2 tiles in place any irregularity in level will be readily apparent, same with bulges and twists. So be ready to cut long tapered shims. I used a track saw to make the long shims. Work carefully since going cheap in this case also risks a quality job. You don't want to be left with a room that makes you feel ill because the floor/ceiling/walls are outta whack. I did a room using tin ceiling tiles nailed to the ceiling.... there was a lot of shim fussing to make it come out right. I wish I had done a better job with the rolled tin edging meeting the irregularities of the walls. When laying out your center line make the far side of the room (from the most used entry point) the primary view such that any irregularity in square ends up behind the viewer. It is a lot like laying a tile floor, start with square and level and all will be well.