Recommend a glue

[measure once cut remeasure]

I need to glue wood to formica style laminate. Contact cement wouldn't allow adjustment into the correct position.

Recommendations ?

[Cooler]

Years ago the laminate in our office kitchen was coming un-done. I squirted Woodworkers glue (probably the first generation as it was about 15 years ago) underneath and put some weight on it and it stayed stuck down ever since.

I have not used it but resorcinol is used for plywood laminations. It has to be applied in a warm environment but it has a reputation for unrivaled strength and 100% waterproofness.

http://www.christinedemerchant.com/adhes...cinol.html

[jteneyck]

Regular old yellow glue will work fine. Just roughen the back of the Formica with sandpaper, glue, and clamp or add weight.

John

[bob-t]

I have been very successful using contact cement. The trick is to keep the surfaces separated with wood dowel or I use old vinyl mini blind slats. Once the contact cement is non tacky, lay the blinds on the surface and the the formica on top. Align and then remove a slat or two from center and press down. Helps to have J roller. Work toward each end removing and rolling.
Bob

[measure once cut remeasure]

Thanks Guys

I can break open the fresh gallon of original tight bond that I picked up a couple weeks ago.

[Cooler]

A paint brush works well for spreading the glue. When I glue up large surfaces I pour out a puddle about 4" in diameter and use a brush to spread it evenly. Put the brush in a can of water while you are doing the glue up or it will be ruined by the time you get to clean it.

I would prefer WWIII only because it has a longer open time. But if you work quickly then the original will work fine.

I put a sheet of ply over the laminate and then add weight over the whole surface. The ply distributes the weight more evenly. Sand bags work well. I have a few hundred pounds in weight lifting plates that I can spread over the plywood. If you place the weight directly on the laminate it will not distribute the weight as evenly.

I would leave it over night before removing the weight but it probably will setup in 4 or 6 hours. Wood workers glue "dries" to cure. So the surfaces in the center of the sheet will need more time to cure as the air will not get at it very easily.

[fredhargis]

Not challenging anything said here, but it's a real surprise to me that the PVA will stick to laminate. I thought it had to have a porous surface. Interesting, live and learn....

[Cooler]

fredhargis said:

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Not challenging anything said here, but it's a real surprise to me that the PVA will stick to laminate. I thought it had to have a porous surface. Interesting, live and learn....

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I think at least one surface has to be porous to allow the glue to dry. As long as the laminate has some tooth it should bond. That is why one of the earlier posts suggested sanding the underside of the laminate.

That said, I re-glued a delaminated counter top by squirting some PVA glue between the laminate and particle board with no sanding of the laminate. It is 15+ years and it is holding up very well.

[Howard Acheson]

Yeah Fred. It will stick but not with the strength of solvent contact cement.

[rwe2156]

I assume you are referring to gluing laminate over wood substrate like plywood.

IMO wood glue (especially non-waterproof like the glue you are using) is not a recommended bonding method for laminate. I would check with some professionals on this before proceeding. Having to sand the laminate is an unnecessary time consuming step.

There is no need to shift the laminate around after applying to substrate. As mentioned, correct gluing technique employs the use of spacers to position the laminate. Its really quite easy. There are multitudes of videos on this.