#17
I'm finishing an old basement. The original septic tank was only a couple feet below ground, and the original pipe out the basement wall into it is at about waist height on the basement wall. The whole septic system was redone several years ago, with a new concrete tank at the right depth, new drains into it; it all works fine.

The old tank is partly fallen in on itself, partly removed, generally a mess. The hole where it used to be has been filled and graded. Unfortunately the steel pipe that used to drain into it still sticks into the basement wall. Occasionally ground water wicks its way into the pipe and leaks into the basement.

The proper solution is to completely excavate the old site, cut the pipe out, and patch and seal the concrete. Unfortunately that is not going to happen, at least not this winter. I need to cap the pipe and make it completely watertight long-term.

I am thinking of cutting a tight-fitting piece of styrofoam to use as a backer, and siliconing it in place a couple inches inside the pipe. Once that is set, I am thinking fill the end of the pipe completely with gel two-part epoxy, the type used for patching concrete cracks. It is about the consistency of peanut butter when working and sets up like rock in 24 hours. Then install a PVC pipe cap over the end of the pipe, sealing it on either with more epoxy or silicone or RTV.

Anyone have a better idea? Thanks in advance for all input.
-DC

"I have morons on my team."
-Megatron, 1986
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#18
how about a fernco cap
south vietnam war collage
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#19
Fill the pipe with spray foam insulation.....

Ed
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#20
https://www.grainger.com/category/pipe-a...catalog%2FN-r49

Twinn
Will post for food.
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#21
theeviltwinn said:


https://www.grainger.com/category/pipe-a...catalog%2FN-r49

Twinn




^^^^^^
this
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#22
Excellent idea on the expansion plugs. Thanks a bunch guys.
-DC

"I have morons on my team."
-Megatron, 1986
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#23
Is that really a permanent solution? Seems like it will leak if the pipe corrodes on either side. That may last years, but for a truly permanent solution I would chisel out the pipe and fill the hole with hydraulic cement.

John
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#24
DirectCedar said:


The proper solution is to completely excavate the old site, cut the pipe out, and patch and seal the concrete. Unfortunately that is not going to happen, at least not this winter. I need to cap the pipe and make it completely watertight long-term.





Rubber gaskets are used to join cast iron pipe all the time. How long do they last? The ones at my house have been there for 30 years with no sign of leaking.

Twinn
Will post for food.
Reply

#25
theeviltwinn said:


[blockquote]DirectCedar said:


The proper solution is to completely excavate the old site, cut the pipe out, and patch and seal the concrete. Unfortunately that is not going to happen, at least not this winter. I need to cap the pipe and make it completely watertight long-term.





Rubber gaskets are used to join cast iron pipe all the time. How long do they last? The ones at my house have been there for 30 years with no sign of leaking.

Twinn


[/blockquote]

He is saying the pipe will rust away
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#26
Why don't the pipes rust away from the rubber gaskets?

Twinn
Will post for food.
Reply
plugging an old septic tank pipe


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