#7
finishing some Luan doors (after 35 years and two boys the originals are showing some wear )

LOML said stain them like the originals so off we went.

stain on, wait, wipe off, wait, apply poly finish, wait (not long enough on some so I've got a few runs )

Started sanding with 6" Porter-Cable VS right angle sander. Disc loaded up quickly and wasn't doing a good job.

Cranked the VS down to about half-speed and new 120 grit disc made a big difference -- lots more dust, disc didn't load and surface felt smoother.

And it took less time to sand a door, too!

But don't let the sander sit still, even for enough time to reverse directions. DAMHIKT

Loops and figure 8's work best.
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#8
120 grit between finish coats, with a power sander? 320 or 400 grit by hand has always worked for me.

John
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#9
Doors aren't that smooth and I ain't got enough oomph for five of them

I agree -- for a quality finish finer paper, preferably wet, is far better.
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom"  --Kris Kristofferson

Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
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#10
WT,

Same goes for auto body work. Running a sander or a buffer to fast heats and softens the finish and gums up the abrasive. You can't polish a soft surface or sand one without creating swirls. Slow and steady allows the abrasive to clean out while your using it. Another helpful tool is to use a 2" chip brush with bristles cut down to about 1/2". Stop the sander every once in a while and brush the dust out of the abrasive. It easily doubles the life of sand paper. Always start the sander or buffer in contact with the surface and never let it park in one spot, it should always be moving.
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slower is faster when sanding between coats


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