Posts: 24,334
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: Elizabethtown, KY
I just painted them in place.
If we were doing it again I'd dismantle it and sand on the lathe.
That way I could sand the drips off the bottom rail.
"Truth is a highway leading to freedom" --Kris Kristofferson
Wild Turkey
We may see the writing on the wall, but all we do is criticize the handwriting.
(joined 10/1999)
Posts: 12,914
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
I would use a chemical stripper and only sand any damage you find after the finish is off. A stripper containing methylene chloride, like KleanStrip Premium, will take off most anything, varnish very quickly, paint a little slower, but it will get it off. It also will get into tight places better than sandpaper. If your stairs are old and painted there's a good chance it's lead paint, and you definitely don't want to sand that.
John
Posts: 690
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Saranac Lake, NY
I did mine in place. The original finish was shellac, so lots of alcohol, green, red and white scrubbies, and various scrapers. The dental molding at the base newell was a pain. I think I also used some paint stripper at the start just to shorten the total cycle. I used shellac to finish, 1# cut, with a final of 1.5# on the railing. Turned out nice... lots of work. Just be patient, do a couple steps at a time. Make sure you wear gloves, I swear I got punch-drunk not wearing gloves..... didn't feel good at all.
Train to be miserable...
that way when the real misery starts you won't notice.
Posts: 3,291
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Cleveland, OH
Sorry...should have also added...it's approx 30 years old...stained/varnished. Everything is in good shape and solid as a rock (main reason I don't want to try dismantling) it's just a hideous stain/color
Posts: 1,028
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2011
For a chemical stripper you will want something viscous enough to stick on vertical surfaces and stay put while it works.
I refinished a set of stairway spindles once. Royal PIA, but the end result paid off.
I used a lot of drum sanding paper that I cut into strips varying 1/2" to 1 1/2" wide.
It worked really well. It's tough and lasts a long time.
It also rolls well into tubes to get into the contours etc.
I was also able to straddle the paper around the spindle and worked it back and forth at varying angles to get the old finish off and maintain a somewhat random scratch pattern to make the finish sanding vertically easier to do.
I also used a card scraper and a regular glue scraper.
I used a lot of different things to scrape and sand.
Ray
Posts: 22,728
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2005
Location: Regina Saskatchewan Canada
If you are going darker, you don't have to strip everything to bare wood. You can tint some varnish and just get it to the point you can add a couple topcoats.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.