#15
Seems to me someone here was recommending these slides. http://www.cshardware.com/39-3300-21.html can't seem to find it. They are woefully short on instructions, I thought that I read that they were a direct knock off of a Blum part and that you could use their documentation.
Contacted CSH for more info.
Saratoga, NY
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#16
Give me a little bit and I'll take pics of my home made jig and dimensions for how wide to make the drawers and where to notch the back.

They are basically the same as the blum and the blum instructuons are as clear as mud as usual with their stuff... Blum has several styles of undermount and finding the right instructuons can be a challenge...

To start with the drawer sides can be 5/8" max width. The drawer bottom needs to be 1/2" from the bottom (to clear the slides and latches)
I forget the exact measurement to subtract for the width so I'll have to look at my notebook. But I prefer to mount the slides in the box then measure from outside to outside of the slides then add the thickness of the sides.

Will also take a pic of the back of a drawer so you can see the hole for the rear pin and notch for the slide.

I'll have the pics and info up by this afternoon for ypu.
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#17
Robert Thanx. I was thinking that they may be like Blum's 563H, which are FF or panel cabinets, 5/8" material. I plan to try one, see how well it works. But if other folks already tried them...
Saratoga, NY
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#18
I bought two cases for our kitchen and I like them. The blum is slightly smoother but at 3x the cost I'll stick with the csh ones.


These measurements are for 1/2" ply.....

OK my jig for the rear hole puts the hole .75 from the side and 7/8 from the bottom. It's a simple jig. Just two pieces with a Dado and a piece of 1/4 ply. Run the Dado down the center so your jig works on both sides of the drawer just by flipping it over. With thicker sides the distance will change.


The rear notch is simple. Using a oscillating tool cut the back of the drawer flush with the inside of the side. Then measure over a little wider than the slide iirc 1.25 and make another vertical cut.
Then go flat against the bottom and take that chunk out.

When done it looks like this.


Now back to the width. I couldn't find my notes but... Drawer width is dependent on the width of the drawer slides. You don't care what the box size is.
Pull the slides out a little and measure from outside to outside. This is your drawer interior size. Add the thickness of your two sides and that will be the outside dimension of your drawer box.
Then make your drawer depth slightly shorter than the slides are made for as this makes drawer install easier.

Really should do a step by step with pics but I don't have the time. If I confused you etc shoot me a pm and I'll give you my number as its easier to explain over the phone or actually seeing it...

Ignore the sloppy drawer I the pic. That was a test drawer. Also I was going between staining the doors for the kitchen this post and selling an item I had on craigslist so nothing is in order...
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#19
blums are rated at 100 pounds the CSH at 85.

if it matters.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#20
meackerman said:


blums are rated at 100 pounds the CSH at 85.

if it matters.




True but how many even get 40 pounds in them. The heaviest loaded drawer is one at the bottom under the keurig. It holds a case and a half of water bottles. No problem with it at all. That's a little over 60 lbs which is under the rating but still it's allot more than most drawers will ever see.
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#21
that's why I added:

if it matters.

Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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CSH Drawer slides


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