How to shape these

[Bope]

I am having problems tapering these table legs. This is my practice table so I can use filler, sand and paint. Ultimately I would like to make this out of cherry so filling and painting are not an option.

I have been roughing them out on the band saw then using 2" long router bits to trim them with a template. When cutting the arc in the large leg I think I left too much waste and had a lot of tear out. So when tapering the sides from 3" to 2" I used my oscillating belt sander to get closer to final size before routing. As you can see I still ended up with some nice gouges in the side and some tear out.

My next thought is to sand close to final size then assemble and use a hand plane to make the final trimming. I am a power tool guy and have very little experience with hand planes so having three more legs to practice on will be helpful. The planes I have to work with is a jack plane and a couple block planes. Any thoughts?

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[BillinIN]

Looking forward to any responses. I had the same problem with poplar.

[KLaz]

If I were doing those, I would band saw close to the line and hand plane to final thickness as you mentioned.

Jack plane would be fine as long as it is very sharp and tuned well. A longer #6 or #7 would help, but assuming your jack plane is a #5, that would work.

Looks like when you are routing, the router is tipping and letting the 2"bit gouge the leg in spots.

If you have a router table with a tall fence, you could use a like a jointer.

Offset the outfeed fence say like a 1/32" and after you have cut close to the line on band saw, take a few passes holding the leg tight to the fence. Same effect as a jointer, but eliminates tipping the leg into the bit.

[PedroOhare]

I think a spokeshave would be the proper tool to finish smoothing those.

You probably need a pretty wide one.

http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.as...&cat=1,50230,62800

Pedro

[Mike67]

What about routing on a table so you don't have to worry about tipping?

[MKepke]

Mike67 said:

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What about routing on a table so you don't have to worry about tipping?

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Exactly my thought too Mike. This should be done in a router-table.

-Mark

[Herebrooks]

On the jointer, carefully!!!

[Dara]

I'm going with spokeshave too. It would make short fun work of that.
Scary sharp sandpaper method should do for sharpening till you get the hand tool bug from it

[jteneyck]

I would cut the curves to within about 1/8" on the bandsaw and then trim them to final profile on the router table using a template and bottom bearing flush cut bit that can reach at least half way up the work piece. When those edges are done, remove the template, flip the work piece over, and change to a top bearing flush cut bit to finish the job.

If you want to taper the parts, end to end, from 3" to 2" I'd make a sled for my planer. First I'd cut the mortises and/or tenons while the stock was square. Then make the sled to cut the taper on one side of each piece. After those have been cut, you'll have to change the shims to cut an equal taper on the other side in order to keep the joinery parallel with the centerline of the work piece.

Not as hard as it sounds and if you set it up correctly the parts should all meet without having to do much hand work besides sanding.

John

[daddo]

If you have a planer, I would plane them to thickness before assembly.

Right now, I would bandsaw them carefully then sand to finish.

There's nothing wrong with imperfections such as gouges- when in a bind, just sand the gouges smooth and make it uniform throughout as though that was intended. Then next time work on a perfect finish if that's what you want.