Flex bit for electrical

[brnhornt]

Hey gang...quick question...I'm going to be running some new electrical thru a wall, and some thru a ceiling. I'm looking for a flexible bit so I don't have to pull as much drywall off. Seems there are a lot of mixed reviews. Anyone have experience with one that they like?

Thanks!
Kevin

[Bob10]

Greenlee is what I use but there can be a learning curve as to where that hole comes out. I have caught a nail before and that didn't go well. So with that figure out what you want to do. Also consider blocking in the wall if working from a switch box opening use a tape to locate blocking you will more than likely need one of these

[crokett™]

Not 'more than likely'. From both personal experience and watching an actual electrician you will need one of those handles Bob linked to. You won't be able to control the bit without one. I would also go no smaller than a 3/4" bit and get one with the hole in the tip that allows you to attach one of wire pulls - lit looks like a chinese finger trap. Drill the hole, leave the bit in the hole. attach the pull, put the wire in the pull and draw the bit back out.

[brnhornt]

Not sure I understand what you mean by "consider blocking?"

Currently...I have a single-gang box with a switch in it. That controls an outlet on the opposite side of the room. I am going to install a 2 or 3-gang box and then take power from the current switch. From there I need to run up the wall into the ceiling. There is a bedroom above so I'll have to cut an access port on the ceiling (no attic.) I will then need to run about 6 feet into the ceiling in one direction...and then about another 6 feet in a 90 degree direction. That will be the center of the room and location for the new light fixture. I'm not sure just yet which direction the ceiling joists run....but no matter what I know that I'll have good handful of joists to clear. If the romex is attached to the cutting end of the bit and pulled back...I don't see how I can run it. If there is some way to attach to the back end of the rod, that would make sense. Drill the hole, or holes (depending on length of bit) remove bit from chuck. Attach romex to rear of bit. Pull from the cutting end of bit. Disconnect the romex. Rechuck the bit...drill the next round. Repeat....

[crokett™]

There may be horizontal blocking in the wall above the light switch. Ive done something very similar to what you want to do. You said you need 2 wires in the ceiling at 90 degrees to each other. One wire is for a new light fixture, what's the other one for?

[brnhornt]

Ohhh...now I get it...yes...will check for blocking...I was confused thinking that Bob was suggesting to ADD blocking while I was doing this.

Sorry if my description was poor. It would be the same wire...just trying to describe where the fixture will be in relation to the switch itself. (for the sake of this description, we will say that the ceiling joists run West/East.)

The switch is at the northern end of the room...and the fixture will be in the middle of the ceiling. So the wire will need to come up from the switch, into the ceiling and run West. That will be an open cavity since it's parallel with the joists. Once centered in the room West/East, I'll have to turn South and run about 5 or 6 feet thru several of the joists.

Does that clear the fog, or just make it worse?

[blackhat]

Does the neutral come into the switch box? Might wanna check before you start buying tools and cutting holes.

[brnhornt]

blackhat said:

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Does the neutral come into the switch box? Might wanna check before you start buying tools and cutting holes.

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Good point...I'll check that before.

[Robert Adams]

I only use them for drilling up or down a wall. I have the tool but often use just a foot of pex slid on the bit.

I have gone horizontally and it's really hit or miss.

These bits do not work well in older houses. The issue is on older houses like ours built out of rock hard Doug fir or whatever it is (turns black over time).. You will burn up the bit pretty quick. I have taken brand new bits and it will take me 20 minutes just to drill through a double top plate because I have to stop and let the bit cool. If you keep drilling it will be very smoky and ruin the temper of the bit. With my luck I'd burn a house down...


Pulling the bit back through the hole it made and pulling a wire with it is not easy. The bit will be tight in the hole and you will have to run the drill to get it through. Better to pull a string instead of the actual wire.

Try to do as little with the flex bit as possible. Better to get in the attic and just pull wire and drill holes.

FYI lowes was clearing out all their Greenlee tools. I bought all the bits from one store. The auger bits were $4 to $8 each and the flex bits were $5 each. I use them and abuse them so stockpile them when cheap.

[brnhornt]

Robert Adams said:

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Better to get in the attic and just pull wire and drill holes.

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No attic. The space above is a bedroom...