Patio Storage Bin

[Halfathumb]

I know this might seem trite but I need to make bin to store my patio cushions. The construction isn't in question but wood selection and top coat is where I need advice. I'm considering either hard maple ply and sticks with an outside poly or marine ply and treated sticks with paint.

Suggestions and/or comments will be appreciated.

Jim

[brianwelch]

I would consider cedar for a number of reasons...allowing for plenty of ventilation...

[Steve Friedman]

Epifanes is an excellent marine varnish and I have used it a lot. But, it's expensive, you need lots of coats (7), it wears over time, and I don't think it will change the character of the wood - it just covers the wood with a film of varnish. Most of the boxes I see are either plastic or teak and I think there's a good reason for that. But, I assume you've decided against those.

Since the sides are vertical, I think that's the easy part, but would use something that you would consider using to side a house or shed with. For finish, I would use whatever you would use if it really was siding.

The lid is what has me wondering. I would think that a slight slope might help shed water, but can't imagine that any horizontal plywood surface is going to last long, regardless of what you coat it with. I would think boat deck when deciding on how to build the top. Cedar roof shakes would work, but wouldn't that be too heavy? Maybe T&G cedar with a frame?

Good luck. Please post pictures when you have it figured out.

Steve

[Jack in omaha]

put them inside outside storage is a problem even in a covered box

[Halfathumb]

Jack in omaha said:

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put them inside outside storage is a problem even in a covered box

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Right now I keep them in a plastic bin and they last quite well winter & summer. The main problem with plastic is that the wind tends to make it journey across the patio, yard and rips of at the hinges.
I'm in the cedar mode right (Mental plans), using T&G except for the lid.

[Herb G]

Buy a Rubbermaid instead. Cheaper & a lot quicker overall.

[jteneyck]

+1. That's what I have and it's now 7 or 8 years old and still looks good and performs its function as intended. The seat cushions stay in it summer and winter w/o problem. It's reasonably heavy and I have no problems with the wind blowing it off the deck.

Since I made my deck out of Ipe', if I were to build a storage box I would use Ipe' for it, and finish it with oil. I made an outdoor bench several years ago, black locust, and finished it with Epifanes Marine Varnish. Great stuff, but maintenance is required every year or two. No way I'd be up for that on a big storage box. If you want to make a wooden box, use a wood that is inherently durable and just use an oil finish. It looks great for awhile, then fades, but requires nothing more than cleaning before reapplying a new coat every year.

John

[Steve Friedman]

jteneyck said:

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+1. That's what I have and it's now 7 or 8 years old and still looks good and performs its function as intended. The seat cushions stay in it summer and winter w/o problem. It's reasonably heavy and I have no problems with the wind blowing it off the deck.

Since I made my deck out of Ipe', if I were to build a storage box I would use Ipe' for it, and finish it with oil.

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John, Ipe is a great idea. I have a Rubbermaid box, but haven't used it since I built a shed. But, Ipe is really a great concept. But, how would you build the lid to keep the water out? And how would you make the lid light enough to be able to lift it with one hand (while holding stuff with the other hard)?

I have only used Ipe once - to make runners under the bottom of adirondack rockers. Tried to do it by hand and will never try that again. Way too hard to work by hand.

Steve

[jteneyck]

Oh sure, now you pin me down for details. OK, I guess if I were to actually make a box out of Ipe' I'd make the sides with a PT frame, screw T&G Ipe' to that, and apply trim boards at the top, bottom, and corners to cover the screws and make it pretty. For the top I might make another light PT frame that would fit over the sides. Maybe a sheet of 1/2" marine plywood on top of the frame, then cover that with T&G Ipe' and trim boards. I'd probably look at using one or two auto hatchback lift cylinders to make it easy to lift the top.

I used that basic concept when I built the planter boxes for my deck, though I wasn't worried about making them water tight:





Sounds doable. I found Ipe' to cut w/o much trouble with carbide blades, and I didn't find it to dull the blades as fast as some claim. I used 1200 lin feet of it to build my deck, with a lot of miter cuts on my CMS and the blade still cut fine at the end of the job. Advantage Lumber was great to deal with; free shipping some of the time. I paid $100 and the load was two very large pallets that weighed 4000 lbs. total.

John

[cputnam]

I used two Rubbermaid bins but my wife has rejected them. She was unable to close it up properly (sometimes) and the elements got in. Little furry critters loved them and left evidence all over everything. That would me to suggest that whatever you do to be sure and seal the bottom portion tightly.