Trouble cutting 3/8 Groove with Veritas Small Plough

[Strokes77]

I should pre-face this by me saying; clearly it is user error.

I was trying to make grooves in Red Oak, to hold the bottom of a small dovetailed tool tote.

The grooves needed to be about 16" long or so in the sides, and 7 inches or so in the ends; and I used a brand new 3/8 blade.

It was really difficult. I kept playing with depth of cut to lessen the jarring, I know 2 of the boards were against the grain, which resulted in a terrible finished product, but even the 2 where I got the grain correct, were not a good finish. I was having problem with it digging in and pulling hard away from the fence. I ended up with the side of the groove to the fence all chewed up, not even close to strait. I also ended up with an angled bottom to my groove; angled down and to the left.

The plane tilting, must have been what was causing it to bite, and pull to the left.

However, I just really struggled to keep it flat I guess. I haven't had this problem on the few other times I've used this tool, and with smaller blades.

How could I do better next time? Does it need an auxillary fence? If so how would that help me here? How do I hold it flat? and not tilted toward the fence side?

Thanks for any thoughts you may have.

[only 3 injuries]

Strokes77 said:

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I should pre-face this by me saying; clearly it is user error.

I was trying to make grooves in Red Oak, to hold the bottom of a small dovetailed tool tote.

The grooves needed to be about 16" long or so in the sides, and 7 inches or so in the ends; and I used a brand new 3/8 blade.

It was really difficult. I kept playing with depth of cut to lessen the jarring, I know 2 of the boards were against the grain, which resulted in a terrible finished product, but even the 2 where I got the grain correct, were not a good finish. I was having problem with it digging in and pulling hard away from the fence. I ended up with the side of the groove to the fence all chewed up, not even close to strait. I also ended up with an angled bottom to my groove; angled down and to the left.

The plane tilting, must have been what was causing it to bite, and pull to the left.

However, I just really struggled to keep it flat I guess. I haven't had this problem on the few other times I've used this tool, and with smaller blades.

How could I do better next time? Does it need an auxillary fence? If so how would that help me here? How do I hold it flat? and not tilted toward the fence side?

Thanks for any thoughts you may have.

---

The small plow is the only hand tool I have that fusturates me on red oak. I've tried all kinds of different configs and it just doesn't seem to do well in it.

Sorry to not help much, but you are not the only one in the boat.

[Admiral]

Definitely an aux fence. Helps to keep things in line

[Philip1231]

Too much depth of cut?

[Jonathan S]

Sharper blade and a deeper auxiliary fence. If im plowing thin stock I will line the edge up with the edge of my bench and run the fence along the edge of the stock and the bench. This helps to keep the plane plumb. Also try using a wheeled marking gauge or cutting gauge to mark your groove. This is a must if you are plowing against the grain.

Jonathan

[Strokes77]

Jonathan S said:

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Sharper blade and a deeper auxiliary fence. If im plowing thin stock I will line the edge up with the edge of my bench and run the fence along the edge of the stock and the bench. This helps to keep the plane plumb. Also try using a wheeled marking gauge or cutting gauge to mark your groove. This is a must if you are plowing against the grain.

Jonathan

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This is genius.

Along with a taller fence and I'm in business right?

[Jonathan S]

Strokes77 said:

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[blockquote]Jonathan S said:

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Sharper blade and a deeper auxiliary fence. If im plowing thin stock I will line the edge up with the edge of my bench and run the fence along the edge of the stock and the bench. This helps to keep the plane plumb. Also try using a wheeled marking gauge or cutting gauge to mark your groove. This is a must if you are plowing against the grain.

Jonathan

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This is genius.

Along with a taller fence and I'm in business right?

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[/blockquote]

It should help. Paul gave some great advice above. Especially the part about both hands doing differvent jobs.

Jonathan

[Rob Young]

Jonathan S said:

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Sharper blade and a deeper auxiliary fence. If im plowing thin stock I will line the edge up with the edge of my bench and run the fence along the edge of the stock and the bench. This helps to keep the plane plumb. Also try using a wheeled marking gauge or cutting gauge to mark your groove. This is a must if you are plowing against the grain.

Jonathan

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+1
Pre-scoring makes a big difference for any plow plane.

[Paul-in-Plymouth]

I’m not sure I have the answer, but do have some thoughts that might help, at least going with the grain. I think I’ve made peace with the Small Plow, but I don’t recall trying red oak against the grain. That might rekindle hostilities ;o).

I’ve found that this plane benefits from a light touch. If you have to push hard for any reason, the chances really increase of the groove going awry somehow or of drifting the fence or depth stop.

Cuts with the grain: First, I’d make sure the blade is very sharp. Then, I’d establish a straight track starting from close to the far end and moving back in small jumps with a modest cut. Once you have a straight track established, it’s easier to follow that track for the rest of the job. You can watch and adjust as the groove develops to make sure the bottom is square, not sloped.

I’ve found it helps to think in terms of strict separation of hands: off-hand guides the fence against the edge and helps keep the plane level; power-hand pushes the plane straight forward, not diagonally. Longer and higher aux fence might help.

Cuts against the grain: haven’t a clue. You might get away with a very sharp blade, light cut and well-scored edges if the grain isn’t too unfavorable, but tear-out is likely.

[Derek Cohen]

Here is a groove-to-be. I can't use a plough plane as the drawer face is bowed.



The first thing to do is mark out the lines qnd score them as deeply as possible. Chisel out the knife lines to protect the edges of the lines. I try and get at least 1/8" down before using the router plane.



When using the router plane, ensure that the blade is ultra sharp (as it should always be). I have a method for this, so yell out if you need. Always take light cuts until you are clear of the top of the wall (to avoid breakout), and only plane with the grain. Use a fence if the router plane has one. Otherwise go deeper with the knife wall, and chisel away the top layer of waste.

If the groove is to be stopped, chisel space at the end(s) for the blade and shavings).



More here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/B...awers.html

Regards from Perth

Derek