Glue for T-Track

[Mr Eddie]

I am finishing up my work table and installing some t-track. I have some long screws that will anchor the t-track thru about 2" or material. But I am going to add some glue too. Any suggestions? Just use a generic epoxy? The t-track fits well in the groove so I almost think yellow glue or even a liquid nails type of product would work. I know you'll ask why I'm doing this - I have 3-4 "shop buddies", ages 6-13, so I have to make sure our work table can stand up to a fair amount of abuse.

Lonnie

[Sawdustd]

No need for glue. Screws will do just fine.

[Mr Eddie]

Normally, I would agree with you but I'm going to be using some of the Kreg Automaxx clamps. I know they will exert a fair amount of pressure so wanting to hedge my bet.

[Steve N]

You are correct in your worry about the Automaxx clamps needing "more". However you're not looking at the correct more. As stated all you really need are screws, but putting them on the thinner walled "T Track" is where you will have a problem. Screwed, glued, and welded in place an automaxx can and will just tear up your classic T track, actually the clamp twists out of the track, but it does distort the track.

If you want to use the automaxx, and feel you may occasionally be putting a lot of pressure on it's fix point, then you need to bump up the fix point, not the method of fixation.






You need to use the little blue plates. To look at them they don't appear to be much beefier than the track, but I can tell you from experience (BAD) that the track will trash up, and the plates won't.

[Paul-in-Plymouth]

Steve makes a good point about possibility of distorting ordinary T-track with Kreg clamps. Besides the plates Steve pointed out, Kreg also offers "Klamp Trak," a T-track designed to work with their clamps. It mounts with machine screws through from the backside of the surface.

I haven't used it to know how well it works. But it appears to be designed to address both your concern about retention and Steve's about distortion.

Something to consider.

https://www.kregtool.com/store/c34/clamp...raktrade/#

[Mr Eddie]

If I had thought ahead I would have used the Klamp Trak. My top is a torsion box with two layers of 3/4" plywood. If the t-track doesn't work out I could always route out the top layer to accept the Klamp Trak. For now, I think I'll double up the screws and see what happens. As Bill mentioned, screws only will allow me to change course if needed. Thanks everyone for the advice. It helps to hear other points of view when you're trying to think it through.

Lonnie

[John Mihich]

If you use epoxy really rough up the trak for the glue to hold. I tried w/o doing that and the trak pulled out pretty easy. The roughing up and screws have held the track so far. BUT - I am not using those kreg hold downs though. If it were me I would add more screws.

[Bill Holt]

John Mihich said:

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If it were me I would add more screws.

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+1 for more screws.

I doubled the number of screws, worked great, and is reversible if I wand to make a change.

[Guest]

I've used West System epoxy to reinforce T track with good success. I always rough up the surface of the track that will be glued with sandpaper to give it a little "tooth" for the glue to adhere to. I agree with Steve, however, and wouldn't plan on exerting a lot of force in T track, even if it's glued into the slot.

[JDuke]

I built a melamine top with a couple pieces of 15 series 80/20 at right angles, to use with kreg automax clamps.

Haven't used it enough yet to know how well it will hold up, but I'm sure if it does fail, it won't be the 80/20 or the claps, it will probably be how I have it fastened to the underlying piece of melamine.

Duke