#14
Well. Hickory is a biaoch to work with. I need to sink some threaded inserts into a hickory top. But the stuff is so hard and splintery that the normal way of threading in the inserts is FOBAR.

So Plan B is to drill an over sized hole and epoxy the threaded insert into place. So my question is what epoxy to use to lock a threaded insert into an oversized hole. I so rarely use epoxy that I'm not familiar with the types, brands or qualities. I'd guess that it would have to be fairly firm when applied so it doesn't run and fill the inside hole where the bolt should go. Ideas or experiences?
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#15
The normal stuff from a borg will work.

Why not plug the hole with a dowel, drill and retap?

Once Favre hangs it up though, it years of cellar dwelling for the Pack. (Geoff 12-18-07)  



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#16
If you go with an insert, fill the interior with beeswax, or grease and leave the bolt/stud in during epoxy process...
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#17
Threads cut directly in wood with a regular tap are surprisingly strong. I would think tapped hickory would be amazingly strong and would handle most loads, unless, of course, you're removing and replacing the bolt often. In which case wear would be a problem.
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#18
Behold the threaded cross dowel...

Much easier to install and notably stronger.
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#19
I used to epoxy wood to metal all the time back when I was making knives. Any will do, though the longer-set stuff seemed to be more waterproof. The most important part is to give the epoxy something to 'bite into' on the metal piece. Scuff it up with coarse sandpaper, scratch it up with a file - anything to give the surface texture for the adhesive to grab hold of.
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#20
May be overkill but this stuff seems to work pretty good.

T88

data sheet:
https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1000/1...125436407695548
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Which Epoxy for metal to wood


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