Wax on MinWax Polycrylic

[petertay15]

Just helped make a large farm table of construction-grade lumber. The 2x8s were well-dried in Colorado's low RH. Sanded it down to perfection, and have now brushed on four coats of Minwax Polycrylic, so it's finished.

BUT, I'm thinking of a recommendation I saw to use 0000 steel wool when applying wax to oil-based finish on hardwood. So my question is: since there are a few dust beetles to rub out, would steel wool and wax harm or hurt the poly on soft wood. Thanks.

[cputnam]

Let me guess as to the replies:

1st - Don't use steel wool - use the green or white pads.
2nd - don't use wax. It's only real use is modify sheen and attract dust.

[JR1]

I basically agree with LIL! Wax gives a nice feel and a look some folks favor but doesn't protect the wood or finish.

[jteneyck]

If you use steel wool you'll end up with a satin sheen, which is OK if that's what you want. Wait at least a week before doing that. But to remove dust nibs w/o changing the sheen I would use white Scotchbrite or just do nothing. They'll go away just through use, too, with no effort at all.

John

[Trusty Rusty]

Or go high tech and use a brown paper bag.
Rusty

[jteneyck]

That works, too, but it's best to wait at least a week before using it and to use a light touch. I scratched a finish once by being a little too aggressive with the paper bag on a finish that was only about 2 days old. I was surprised (and not in a good way) to see that it would do that.

John

[petertay15]

Speaking for those of us who are learning woodworking as we go by reading these forums, thank you for answering the questions. You are much appreciated.

[Cooler]

If you don't wax it, and it needs a new top coat, then you just scuff it up with some 320 grit and apply the new finish.

If you wax it you have to be 100% sure that you've gotten all the wax off before you apply a new top coat.

I never wax my finishes for exactly that reason.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I haven't used Minwax Polycrylic in a long time. I do remember it being what I considered a soft finish, even when cured. I think you're best best would be to make a sample board and run through a few different process to decide what you like best.

I rubbed out a hard maple crib I made with wax and steel wool for this exact same reason but the finish was Minwax oil based Poly which is a pretty hard finish once cured. It turned out silky smooth when I was done.

I do like using wax in this application but mostly on items that are small and/or "handled". I love adding paste wax to the handles of hand tools--especially old hand tools. I just feels nice to me.

I know this isn't in part to your question but while we are on topic, make sure you use either a brown wax for darker woods or a "white" crystal clear wax for lighter woods. I once learned this hard way using non-brown on small walnut piece. You will be blessed with a white haze stuck in the pores of a dark wood once it's dry.