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An artist brush made with Taklon (a type of nylon) bristle works very well with shellac. Brushes can be had in many different shapes and sizes. I have a 2", and a 1" wide "standard" shape and one "filbert mop" that is maybe 3/4" wide. The curved shape of the filbert mop is good around edges so you don't accidentally form a bead on the adjacent corner.
The brushes are relatively inexpensive but will last quite a while if you take care to rinse them out. I rinse them in alcohol and then just store them bristles pointing up. They harden from the residual shellac. When time to use again, I have to soak them for a few minutes in alcohol.
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Brushes not really required when you're using DNA. Meth/eth/yl alcohol evaporates pretty fast, never seems a wet edge on anything longer than a foot.
Badger is a good choice, but get some isopropyl (slower) alcohol to work it. Not the stuff at the drug store, dehydrated chemical stuff. That way you can work a stroke over an edge still wet. Did it for a while, then went back to the old undershirt and a touch of grapeseed oil.
Ammonia makes a cleaner brush than solvent soaks.
https://www.shellac.net/OmegaBrushes.htmlhttps://www.shellac.net/faq.html
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I started with a mid grade china bristle brush that I found in a arts supply store. It was a $13 brush that was better then the cheap throw away ones. I still have the brush after 10 years and it still works fine. I use a taklon for moldings and smaller parts. I also have a badger (probable fake badger) that I got for varnishes. I tried it with shellac and it works great. For larger surfaces, I like a brush that will hold a lot of product so I can get brush across in to directions 2-3 times.
Brushing technique is very important to prevent fat edge. Everyone is always worried about open time with brushing shellac, but I have never fond that to be a problem. Its that fat edge that will give you fits.
RLMillard has several you tube videos that I found most helpful on shellac finishes.
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Thus far in my limited use of shellac as a final finish, I've found a pad to be very easy - no edge problems.
Thanks, Curt
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I thin with DNA and use a Bounty paper towel. Sacrilege.
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Thank you all, Some good information and food for thought here...and likely saved me some money as well.
For The Love Of Wood
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Shellac wipes on easily. I used to use a brush on curved surfaces. Eveven rattle can works better. Get a cheap spray unit. Rob's advice is good overall. Ammonia works great for cleaning but it's toxic and you need to remove it all.
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