#13
Hello,
I have a tool cabinet with a flat metal top, and I'd like to have a piece of 3/4 MDF glued to the top, so as to have a MDF work surface. The top is about 18x24.
What if anything, would you recommend that I use to do this?
Thanks,
Louis
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#14
Actually I wouldn't glue it. I would attach it with screws from underneath.
John

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#15
Thanks. That's my other alternative, but I'd rather glue it if possible, because I want a smooth result. I know that I could countersink the screws and even attach Masonite on top of that, but I would prefer to glue it if I can.
Louis
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#16
Plain old silicone or acrylic latex caulk. A series of thin s curving beads and set it in place. Weight the top for 24 hours. It doesn't really need the weight to bond but it will keep you from fooling with it until the adhesive sets up.
Blackhat

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#17
Reconsider the screws so the top can be replaced as needed.
Carolyn

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#18
MsNomer said:


Reconsider the screws so the top can be replaced as needed.



That is what I'd do. And note that the suggestion from John was to screw from below...so you wouldnt have a problem with screws on the surface.
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#19
Gorilla glue will handle that sticky situation for you.
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#20
I used recessed self drilling & tapping screws at the outer edge of the top penetrating the metal where there was no drawer below. This kept me from having to get inside to place a nut or drive a screw.
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#21
Silicone glue will work, but I would use double faced foam tape. 3M makes many grades, some with extraordinary hold. And when you decide to remove it, a hair dryer will get rid of the residue. Removing silicone adhesive (or E6000, a stronger flexible adhesive) will be very difficult.

I would also use carpet tape to attach a piece of tempered hardboard as a sacrificial work surface above the MDF. It is a much harder surface than MDF and it is very cheap. Carpet tape is not very strong but it is fine for this application.
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#22
I'm also in the non-permanent camp.

The double stick tape idea has merit, but bolting is best. Provide, of course, you have access.

To do so without visible fasteners, I'd drill the steel deck, then mark the hole locations on the bottom of the mdf top.

Remove the mdf top and embed hardwood plugs at the screw locations, then just use screws.

However, I would probably just use flathead fasteners in the 4 corners and leave the fasteners exposed. What would they hurt?
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How do I get MDF to adhere to metal?


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