Air Regulator Question

[DIY&wwing]

The air regulator on my compressor broke (it goes up to 125 PSI before turning off) so I bought something similar to this: http://www.amazon.com/TCP-Global%C2%AE-A...001OZJNUS/ and attached it right before whatever tool I am using (hose, regulator, quick connector, gun). I thought this would be the best solution so I can adjust the PSI for whatever tool that I am using, but the problem is I dial in the psi (ie. 100 for brad nailer), shoot a nail, and then the PSI will always go down and I have to readjust it back to the same psi (ie 100) again. The knob is very sensitive and it is difficult to dial it into the correct psi. I am spending WAY too much time fiddling with this thing.

Are these things suppose to work how I envision or do you think the one I have is faulty?

Thanks

[jteneyck]

The problem is your air supply coming to that little unit is unregulated. On the first shot it's 125 psi coming to it, the next shot a little less, etc., until it drops off to whatever point that it cycles back on again. There could be a problem with that regulator, too, but I think the larger problem is it's not really suitable for the job you are asking it to do. The proper solution is to replace the regulator on your compressor with something similar to what it originally had, complete with a filter/water trap.

John

[Robert Adams]

That's not the type of regulator you need. Those only work for open loads like a paint gun. You need a regulator that has a diaphragm. This will maintain pressure on the output side.

The one you have is basically a needle valve. Really for adjusting flow not pressure. But if you cut down the flow there will be less pressure in the output side.

[daddo]

I agree with Adam.

And get one with a moisture trap for best protection for the tools.

[Mr_Mike]

Above posters are right, its not a regulator with a feedback loop, look at it as an adjustable orifice. Its only somewhat accurate for a running load.

I bought a common full size regulator and put QDs on each end and move it around with my air tools and a length of hose.

[Mr Eddie]

This is how I setup my air lines using some advice from the forum and my own experience. Please note that the connection from the compressor is on the bottom.




It is important to have about 25-30' of pipe before your separator and regulator.




Air from the compressor is in the top pipe. It feeds the drop on the other side of the garage doors. Notice the 'T' fitting. It feeds the drop back at the compressor. Now both runs have at least 25' before the separator/regulator.





I set my regulators around 90-100 and only use a regulator at the tool if I'm using a spray gun. Obviously, it depends on what tools you're using. My compressor kicks on at 110. The air supply is very steady. As the other posters have said, a decent regulator/separator will solve your problem. And it's worth spending a day to get everything piped and setup for the long haul. You'll be glad you did.



Lonnie

[fixtureman]

Mr Eddie said:

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This is how I setup my air lines using some advice from the forum and my own experience. Please note that the connection from the compressor is on the bottom.




It is important to have about 25-30' of pipe before your separator and regulator.




Air from the compressor is in the top pipe. It feeds the drop on the other side of the garage doors. Notice the 'T' fitting. It feeds the drop back at the compressor. Now both runs have at least 25' before the separator/regulator.





I set my regulators around 90-100 and only use a regulator at the tool if I'm using a spray gun. Obviously, it depends on what tools you're using. My compressor kicks on at 110. The air supply is very steady. As the other posters have said, a decent regulator/separator will solve your problem. And it's worth spending a day to get everything piped and setup for the long haul. You'll be glad you did.



Lonnie

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I see you do not have a drain valve on the drip. We have regulators right off the compressor with a drain on the drip tube at each drop

[Mr Eddie]

If you run 25-30' of line before your separator/regulator you will get much, much, less condensation than if you have the separator/regulator right off the compressor. Feel the tank when it's running - it's hot! Also, if you drain the compressor every few days it helps a bunch. I mainly put the drip leg in to catch any solder/crap that might break loose. When I used this setup in my other shops with a drain valve on the drip legs, it never had enough fluid to bother with.

Lonnie

[arthropod98]

as has been said, i'd look into replacing the one on the compressor if possible. but, here's what i use for my nailers with no tool-less adjustment:

http://www.amazon.com/Plews-41-145-At-Ha...arch_detailpage

[DIY&wwing]

arthropod98 said:

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as has been said, i'd look into replacing the one on the compressor if possible. but, here's what i use for my nailers with no tool-less adjustment:

http://www.amazon.com/Plews-41-145-At-Ha...arch_detailpage

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This is what I was looking for thank you!