Peened over saw nut on Spears & Jackson 14" backsaw

[Blacky's Boy]

I recently won this Spears and Jackson 14" Backsaw in an Ebay auction. I bought it knowing that I was getting a saw that needed a good amount of TLC. But the handle and overall shape intrigued me.



When I took delivery of it the day before Christmas I was pleasantly surprised to see that the saw plate really wasn't as bad as the seller reported. It's nice and straight. That also tells me that the spine is probably in good condition as well. Depending on how the saw plate cleans up, I may or may keep. I can easily make a replacement if t's a total loss.

However, before I can even begin to work on the saw plate I need to take the handle off. And one look at the saw nuts tells me that's going to be a bit more tricky than I had anticipated.





As you can see in the photo about, it looks like the lower saw nut has been peened over. I can just make out the profile of the threaded portion.

What's my best bet for removing this damaged split nut? Without destroying it. Id rather retain this original split nut than replace it with a new one that may or may not be the exact same size.

I was thinking of using a Dremel and a small abrasive cut off wheel to "cut" a set of slots. Then I could (possibly) unscrew it with a shop built split nut driver. Yeah,...this is one of those projects that spawns at least one other "sub-Project".

Any ideas?

[marcb]

Cold chisel. Small enough to go on either side of the screw.

light taps to open up and make the groove. Then split nut screw driver. Clamp the handle down and lean all your weight onto it when turning since the chisel may have made imperfect cuts making a tendency to cam out

[Timberwolf]

IMO, any action you take will result in the loss of the screw and the nut..If the screw is bradded over the nut, the threads on the pair will have collapsed and the screw will likely snap if you are able to turn it at all...And the possibility exists that the square shank of the screw that prevents it from turning will "round out" the hole it is in and will turn in the wood.

I would drill the nut off the screw, drive it out, and get someone to make me another screw and nut to match the original.

[KlausK.]

Timberwolf said:

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IMO, any action you take will result in the loss of the screw and the nut.

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That's pretty much the same way as I think. I probably would make another attempt before drilling the screw out by using a Dremel with a shallow cutting blade to redo the slot. Care has to be taken not to impact the handle with the Dremel blade.

This handle is one of the very nicest closed handles that ever was made. And the shape looks very good. So my sincere congrats on this saw.

Klaus

[Blacky's Boy]

KlausK. said:

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Care has to be taken not to impact the handle with the Dremel blade.

This handle is one of the very nicest closed handles that ever was made. And the shape looks very good. So my sincere congrats on this saw.

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Thank Klaus. I've always liked this style handle myself. It's got so much class.

And when I finally opened the package I was very pleased to see how intact this handle was. I was expecting it to have a busted horn or something like that.

Trying to minimize the chances of damaging the handle is one of the reasons I'm now more in favor of just drilling out the old nut and making a new one. I really don't want an oversized hole in the handle. That might lead to the saw plate moving and would drive me NUTS!

[Blacky's Boy]

Timberwolf said:

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I would drill the nut off the screw, drive it out, and get someone to make me another screw and nut to match the original.

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After looking at this peened over saw nut some more, I think that's about the best course of action. My buddy can probably make me a brass split nut that'll match. It'll just take a month or so until he gets around to doing it! Then again, I may just try my hand at it. What have I got to loose?

[Phil S.]

I'd try your idea of cutting a slot and trying to unscrew it with a split nut driver. My first choice of tools would be a straight graver. Not too expensive and better control (for me at least ) than a Dremel. A brass nut should cut fairly easily. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. You can always drill it out if you can't unscrew it, but you can't unscrew it after it's drilled. Be careful where the nut meets the screw so they don't get riveted together.

Another thought would be to drill a couple of small holes instead of cutting a slot and use a shop made pin wrench. Could use a same size drill bit for the pin stock.

Pretty handle, by the way.

Good luck-
Phil

[MarvW]

Dom,

As a first attempt, I kinda go with Phil's idea of drilling two small holes where you think the screwdriver slots were. I'd go with maybe 1/16" dia. holes and press two steel pins into the holes and then with the use of a screwdriver blade between the two pins, try to turn the nut. It might be easier than it looks. If the nut does come off, you can then either file or dremel new slots where the two small holes are. I'd suggest you remove the steel pins first though....

[Pedder]

MarvW said:

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Dom,

As a first attempt, I kinda go with Phil's idea of drilling two small holes where you think the screwdriver slots were.

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After That I would grind a screw driver to match the holes.It is easier and nicer to just have to make a new nut insteadt of a new nut + screw set.

Cheers
Pedder

[TucsonLawrence]

I once removed a large screw that was rounded over by putting a little epoxy onto a trash screwdriver and then holding it in place until it set. Perhaps you could try epoxying a wooden dowel onto the nut and then (as gently as possible) turning the dowel to loosen the nut? I don't know if the torque applied would break the epoxy bond in this case, but it wouldn't be any worse than what you are at now and you could file the wood/epoxy off afterwards.

Just a thought-
Lawrence