Get the longer rails???

[frigator]

So I find myself at age 60, setting up shop again, this time in a small two bay garage, 20x24. My previous two shops were much bigger, esp the last one, so I always had full 50 in rip on my TS.

But now every inch counts so am thinking of getting the short rail saw with only 25 inch rip. I build with mostly solid wood, except for shop cabinets, shelves, etc. So I do need to cut ply somtimes. I see everyone using these expensive track saws and maybe I will see the light and get one. But I am a value guy who uses my old makita saw to cut the stuff on sawhorses as it comes off the truck. My straightedge is a jointed piece of pine. But I would like at least 36in rip as that is what most cabinet sides run. So I could buy the longer rails and cut them down if its too wide.

So anyway, what do you guys think....get the longer rails. Does 2ft of extra rail really make much difference in this small of shop?

[jteneyck]

Guys with track saws will tell you you don't even need a TS, but I like the 52" rails on my saw. I would not want anything less than 36" capacity. How about incorporating your router into the right side of your TS to justify the longer rails? That's were I put mine and I use the rip fence with the router when needed.

John

[fredhargis]

I think you will survive just fine with shorter rails, but like John said 36" may make more sense. As for the track. I highly recommend them, but truth is a shop built guide and circ saw can do a lot of the sheet good stuff; that said, some do suggest they can replace a TS....I am not one of them.

[CARYinWA]

I had a 26" fence. Then a 52". Now I have about 34". This is about perfect for me but I also have a JessEm slider on it and I have a DeWalt tracksaw. I have a 3 car garage but all the tools are parked in 1/3 of that space when not in use.

[knotscott]

If the saw is left tilt, you can always get the shorter rails, and slide them over by a bolt hole to gain more capacity if you need it.

Most sheet good suppliers will cut sheets down to manageable sizes for free or a small fee.

Rip Capacity

[frigator]

Thanks for the replys guys. I have heard that about moving the rail support over a bolt hole to gain 8-12 inches. But the guy at Grizzly told me it would cover up the miter slot. Has anyone done it with a grizzly saw. I am leaning towards the 1023.

Jeez I got to buy everything new again. Lost it all in divorce. Never knew my ex-wife owned 1/2 of all my equipment.

[TDKPE]

I got my Unisaw with 52" rails when I was in a 2-car garage. I used the square mobile base (no extension table support) so I could push it against the side wall so I could park on that side. I had stuff under the table, with just a slit in the 'stuff' for the two legs to slide into, like a jigsaw puzzle. It just skimmed under a utility work bench, so when it was against the wall, it was practically invisible. I wouldn't want to have less than the 52" table. But that's just me.

[mike4244]

frigator said:

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Thanks for the replys guys. I have heard that about moving the rail support over a bolt hole to gain 8-12 inches. But the guy at Grizzly told me it would cover up the miter slot. Has anyone done it with a grizzly saw. I am leaning towards the 1023.

Jeez I got to buy everything new again. Lost it all in divorce. Never knew my ex-wife owned 1/2 of all my equipment.

---

I have the G1023 and the short rails. I moved the rails to the right for a 34" or 37" rip,don't recall exact width. 52 years in the trade and never had to use the fence to the left of the blade.I have no capacity to rip to the left,never needed it. My saw is 20 year old right tilt G1023.

mike

[CARYinWA]

[Wild Turkey]

I just made short rails for my Bessy fence and hung the big one on the wall for when I need it.

Square tube and angle iron "drops" from local steel supplier cost me about $20 and I can now get around in my 1-1/2 car sized shop.