Pole Building Insulation

[sroxberg]

I would like to insulate my pole building shop. It is 30 by 45 and currently only has one layer of foam board on the sides and the ceiling.

I would then like to install a small furnace and Air Conditioner. I am currently using a large window unit which just does not do the job and I'm not surprised.

I'm assuming insulation would help with both the heating cost, I'm in Iowa and the cooling cost.

How would you recommend doing the walls and ceiling?

[Splinter Puller]

If it was mine I'd build inner walls out of 2x4's about a few inches (or more) nside the foam board, line the walls with paneling or metal and blow in cellulose in the cavity. For the roof I'd install 2x4's between the bottoms of the trusses and blow in r40 or more in the attic. (you will have to check to see if your roof trusses can handle the extra dead load)

This is why I had pole buildings when the intent is to insulate and finish them. It would be better in the long run if people would just build framed walls on a regular insulated foundation. Then the building can be insulated and finished correctly.

Good luck.

[Robert Adams]

What Splinter said is how I would go.

I have a metal building which is the closest you will see to a pole barn here. It has the regular metal building fiberglass insulation with the white plastic on the Inside. So basically at the same place as you but with more insulation to start with.

The other method is spray foam which when you figure cost of framing and insulation it may be cheaper to foam. However pole barns and much worse on metal buildings is the lack of framing. Because of the construction there is nothing to attach anything to so framing might be the better way.

If I ever build another shop it will not be a metal building. Too much heat transfer through the framing, nothing to attach anything to hard to insulate well etc. I'd do 2x6 framed with metal on the outside and spray foam it all.

[sroxberg]

Actually this is a Moreton steel building with a concrete floor and the posts are 2 x 6's laminated . There are strechers of 2 x 4 that go horizontally between the posts and that have one layer of blue foam board and then the steel.

I like the idea of framing in the walls, but that will be more expensive that I'd probably like.

[CLETUS]

My shop is 24'x24' a pole building. I studded up walls, put in 6" of batt insulation and sheeted it with OSB.

[Robert Adams]

sroxberg said:

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Actually this is a Moreton steel building with a concrete floor and the posts are 2 x 6's laminated . There are strechers of 2 x 4 that go horizontally between the posts and that have one layer of blue foam board and then the steel.

I like the idea of framing in the walls, but that will be more expensive that I'd probably like.

---

Hmm. Netting then cellulose maybe. But you still need to cover it with something.

Or maybe use roll insulation for metal buildings. Put up a few 2xs just to attach the edges to as the roll insulation is kind of like regular insulation but much wider and longer and has a rip stop vinyl on the inside.

Insulating these types of buildings isn't as cheap as the building it's to build. Mine is all steel. Concrete floor with 3" posts every 10' and then 2x2 steel frame 5' on center everywhere.

[Tim in Indiana]

The best way is spray foam but it is more money than fiberglass. But it does make the building airtight, excluding the openings, doors, windows, etc.

If you don't want spray foam just buy the unfaced pole barn insulation. It comes in either eight or nine foot wide rolls, depending on your column spacing.

Around here the rolls are sixty foot in length and the last time I purchased it they were around $240 a roll. This was for R-19, six inch thick fiberglass. One eight foot wide roll covers 480 square feet.

Hang it then finish it just like the outside with 2x4 horizontal grits spaced to fit your interior liner. Two foot spacing for sheet goods like OSB or plywood. Or interior white metal.

Quick, easy and reasonable in price.

Use blow in fiberglass in the ceiling, not cellulose as it usually has a boric acid fireproofing that will leach out if there is a roof leak. If it does it can corrode the metal ceiling liner. Saw this happen at a large hanger building, they discovered the leaking ceiling when it collapsed onto the planes!

[sroxberg]

I'm up for the spray foam for the walls since I would like to make it a bit more air tight. The spray foam would have to be applied to some of the blue foam board, or I'd need to cover that and they apply the spray foam.

Is there a spray foam that is compatible with the blue foam board on my walls?

[vernonator]

sroxberg said:

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I'm up for the spray foam for the walls since I would like to make it a bit more air tight. The spray foam would have to be applied to some of the blue foam board, or I'd need to cover that and they apply the spray foam.

Is there a spray foam that is compatible with the blue foam board on my walls?

---

I would give a local spray foam contractor a call and talk about your potential job. I am in the Des Moines area as well (just SE of Elkhart) and we used Kinzler Construction to do our attic and basement a few years ago. They did a great job, very clean and efficient. Price was very competitive as well.

[theeviltwinn]

Air infiltration is a major cause of heat loss in a building. It's like leaving a window open. Pole buildings are especially bad. Anything you can do to stop the air is more cost effective than just adding insulation.

Twinn