Tool handle finish

[AUswimKC]

I absolutely love my LV BU jack and a few other planes and tools like their saws. I have, however, come to loathe the thick plastic-y finish on the handles. So my question is this, does anyone have any advice as to what finish I should apply after stripping the lacquer?

Should I leave it unfinished such that it absorbs the thin coats mineral oil I use to keep rust at bay? Apply BLO? A blend of BLO/MS/varnish? Shellac? Wax? Wax and shellac? Something else? PToo many options.

Would love your thoughts and advice

[Phil S.]

I used Tru-Oil on this Bailey #6 - looks good, feels good.

[AHill]

+1 for Tru-Oil. I've used it on rehabbed Stanley planes. The original finish was shellac, which also works fine.

[Carl Grover]

If you try Tru oil on that tote, you'll never use anything else.


carl

[Timberwolf]

This is true...Tru-oil is super and I have used it on tools and firearms for way more than 40 years!!

[JR1]

TruOil Birchwood Casey developed as a gun stock finish but it;s great on any wood that is curved and takes some wear. Just don't get acetone or MS on it.

[Derek Cohen]

Shellawax.

Rub it on and the buff off on a mop. It sets with the heat from friction created by the mop. This is a (Australian) product made for turners, but I have used it very successfully on handles for many years. It creates a hard, clear finish, with a very natural look and feel. It is MUCH quicker and far less hassle to use than Tru-Oil. I think Lee Valley sell it now.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[KlausK.]

I'm a big fan of Tru-Oil. The stuff allows you to get just the degree of glance that you like. It depends on the number of coats you apply.

Some woods do interfere with TO however. Specifically the oily woods like Cocobolo shouldn't be finished with TO. On these woods I got good results with a finish of pure carnauba wax.

On rosewood handles of vintage Stanleys I had mixed results with TO. Some turned out very nice, others less.

Klaus

[AUswimKC]

I guess I'll have to try this tru-oil stuff out. Anyone know if it will work on the bubinga handles (I'm unsure if bubinga is an oily wood).

If I don't like it, can I strip the tru-oil?

[C. in Indy]

I've done some Bubinga totes which worked very well with Tru-Oil. I had more trouble with rosewood, so there I usually use Shellawax. With problems, stripping is fine, and once in a while you can actually seal-in problems with shellac.