Painting before/after trim?

[K. L. McReynolds]

[John Mihich]

When I do paint a room where the trim is already installed I always tape. Why?? Because I can't paint between the lines. For some reason I just can't paint paint a straight line. I have tried all sorts of brushes w/o luck. So I just take my time to tape. It's slower and cost more but for me that's what I do.

[Woodjets]

A quality brush and a little practice, it's not that difficult. A good brush is critical.

[Admiral]

I buy the absolute best brushes available, usually in a paint store. I have a number of brushes that are over 15 years old. One must also clean them often and properly.

[K. L. McReynolds]

Yup, I favor Purdy, having the best results with tapered artificial bristles(kinda purple color).

A trick to painting trim against a wall or a wall against trim. Dip the brush about 1/2" in the paint and wipe the side clean to the part you do not want paint.

Example: Painting a wall by a door with the door trim on the left. Wipe clean the left side of the brush, leaving paint only on the right half of the bristles. Watch the bristles against the trim and adjust the pressure/angle of the brush to deposit paint on the wall and not the trim. As soon as the brush quits laying paint on the wall, stop and start the brush at the start of that section and pull the paint away from the trim, moving down to where the paint stopped. Redip/clean/continue.

That technique can create(with a little practice) as good a line as if you taped the trim.

[John Mihich]

I have really tried. And you would think I could do this - I am an artist also. But for some reason I just can't. I have Purdy brushes; the right ones. I am just not meant to do it. I also have trouble cutting a straight line with a jig saw.

[Foggy]

If I will be putting a final coat on the trim after it is installed I put some waxed paper on the wall behind the trim and out beyond the trim on the wall. Then I can be sloppy with the final trim coat and then remove the overhanging paper with a sharp knife.

[Robert Adams]

Foggy said:

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If I will be putting a final coat on the trim after it is installed I put some waxed paper on the wall behind the trim and out beyond the trim on the wall. Then I can be sloppy with the final trim coat and then remove the overhanging paper with a sharp knife.

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OK I'm confused. How do you remove the wax paper? All the joints between the trim and wall are caulked.

I spray the walls and ceiling then the trim. Then I go back and cut in the walls and roll the border to cover any over spray.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

Painting a "straight" line is subjective. It all depends on what your willing to settle for. No one can paint a line as straight as the tape edge is cut from the factory. Given you apply it very close to straight. A real test to see if someone is a good or experienced interior painter is to not have them paint but to apply tape to the trim. If you're good at applying tape, there's little doubt you're a good interior painter as well.

Personally, I free hand the sides of casing and tape off the top edge of baseboards and window sills. Another factor in painting straight is the surface your painting. A rough texture is very difficult. Smooth walls are much easier.

The best paint brushes are Corona. Wooster is probably my second choice and then Purdy. Purdy brushes were much better quality 15-20 years ago, IMO.

[Estrogen Hostage]

Need to define whether the trim is stained or painted. Painted trim goes on before paint, stained trim after. For painted trim, spray trim and ceiling first, then roll walls. No tape unless it's a tight corner. All cutting in is freehand.