#16
I need advice on how to repair a seam tape problem. You can see in the photo that the seam that joins two surfaces of drywall on a ceiling at a 45 degree angle has separated. On one half of the seam the tape has separated from the drywall. A little farther down the other half separated. Should I try to re-glue this seam and then spackle over it? Or what you would suggest? <a href="[URL=http://s674.photobucket.com/user/GFFreely/media/Drywall/IMG_0949.jpg.html" ></a>]Photobucket[/url]
You can observe a lot just by watching. YB
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#17
remove the tape scuff the area up apply new mud then tape more mud

IOW the seam failed you need to fix it correctly
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#18
Yup.
Matt

If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.
-Jack Handy

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#19
Ok, that makes sense. Now, I've seen self adhesive seam tape but never used it. For a ceiling joint it seems it would make it much easier. Are there any drawbacks to using this type of tape?
You can observe a lot just by watching. YB
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#20
If you're talking about mesh tape, it can be harder to hide than paper tape. Paper tape is also more forgiving if a drywall joint isn't perfect. At least that's what I'm told. Of course all my drywall joints are perfect....
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#21
I started with mesh as that's what my father used. Once I tried paper I never looked back. The biggest draw back that I've seen is its thickness. The mud has to be thicker to cover it, and that requires more feathering. If you don't cover it completely, you can see the mesh. Painted paper on paper tape looks like drywall.
Matt

If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.
-Jack Handy

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#22
OK then, paper it is. It seems there are no shortcuts with drywall work. I thought I would ask anyway.
You can observe a lot just by watching. YB
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#23
Woodchukker said:


OK then, paper it is. It seems there are no shortcuts with drywall work. I thought I would ask anyway.




I'll give you a couple of tips.

Make sure there is no loose paper after you remove the old tape. If there is loose paper, remove it. If it comes off easily, remove what you can and seal things with some spray shellac before proceeding. And then use quick setting hot mud for the first coat.

Otherwise you can end-up with bubbling paper which turns into a hot mess when working overhead.

If you don't want to bother with hot mud, use a thin coat of premixed for the first coat to give you a barrier before going on heavier.
"Links to news stories don’t cut it."  MsNomer 3/2/24
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#24
FWIW, I just had pro drywallers come through and givwe me a quote on some small jobs including fixing a ceiling joint like that.

If I understood the drywaller correctly, he said the joints were originally done with a product like this:
http://www.clarkdietrich.com/products/pa...orner-bead-p2oi

Two choices for fixing: either cut out the failed portion and replace with the same stuff, or remove the corner-bead from the entire seam and use &lt;something else&gt; (might have been paper).

YMMV.

-Mark
If I had a signature, this wouldn't be it.
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Drywall Seam Tape Problem


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