Posts: 6,423
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: Truro,N.S. Canada
I don't have access to any of those, but my choice is P&N, I can get them from Lee Valley and have several now and really like them.
Mel
ABC(Anything But Crapsman)club member
Posts: 6,179
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2002
Location: Bothell, WA
for the most part I stay away from high priced "ordinary" turning tools. Pretty much anything in M2 is good enough for me. P&N or basic Craft Supply tools do just fine for 90% of my turning time.
Cellulose runs through my veins!
Posts: 22,408
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2004
Location: Monrovia, AL
FWIW. I got a P&N roughing gouge when I started turning 8 years ago and it's still going strong. Getting a little short and I may have to replace it in a year or so, but I've been very happy with it.
Edit: I was tired last night was thinking of my spindle gouge that is getting short. I just measured my P&N roughing gouge and in 8 years, I've taken ~10mm off of it. It'll last me a long, long time.
Posts: 10,716
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2006
Location: Orlando, Florida
Truth in Advertising: I've never used Carter or D-Way tools. I do, however, own several Thompson bowl and spindle gouges, a host of Sorby, and a few EZ Wood Tools. Best tool, bar far, is Thompson. The steel lasts a lot longer between sharpenings than any of my other tools. I don't use any of my EZ tools for final cuts. I get far better cuts with my Thompson tools than with the carbide tools.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
Posts: 14,839
Threads: 10
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: southeastern VA
I have not tried the D-Way or the Carter tools. Doug Thompson's tools are so good that they are pretty much all I buy unless I know that I am going to try some odd end shape experiments on the grinder. Then I grab a Sorby or something that I picked up used.
The Thompson tools can be switched between different handles like the other 2 brands that you mentioned.
If you are talking about a scraper, then you might try one of Robo Hippie's Big Ugly tools. I got the smaller size from him in Atlanta but have not made a handle for it yet.
If you are buying tools for yourself as tools-for-the-teacher, then I recommend Thompson.
If you are buying tools that you will be giving away, then I recommend Sorby. This is not to be cheap. It is because so much of a tool is used up by a new turner as they learn how to sharpen and as they keep changing tip shapes as they experiment and learn. If the student knows that a tool is expensive, then it can inhibit them from learning from trying new things. It can also inhibit them from sharpening as often as they should.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
Posts: 20,950
Threads: 0
Joined: May 2005
Replace? If they are tools you are accustomed to, buy similar, and reduce the re-learning phase. Don't worry about what alloy they are made of, worry about their shape and size and how you present them. I've got tools from high carbon steel to exotic chrome and vanadium alloys. I even have one that features a "famous name" as well as exotic alloys.
NONE of the tools, over nearly 40 years of turning, including some decidedly commercial ones 9"turning for tuition"), is worn beyond use. Worst is probably the rough gouge, since I am lazy and tend to feed him dirty bark and sand-filled pits. He's lost a bit less than half his length in thousands of turnings.
Which tells a further tale. If you're not freehanding when renewing the edge, you're probably taking more metal off than you need to. It's a skill worth its weight in vanadium. I know the different alloys are supposed to last longer than X, but my dislike of using a less-than optimum edge means I freshen often. If I had a fancy grinding setup and a jig, I'd spend more time and metal.
Get what you have that needs replacement and you'll have more money for what you'd like to try in the way of new and different. Then apply them properly, and you'll find that the name means nothing. It's the way you use them that counts.
Oh yes, dry the edges when finishing work on wet, acid woods. Corrosion kills a sharp tool.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Posts: 771
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2011
Location: Cincinnati
Start posting videos on youtube, maybe you can get sponsored.