#17
Has anybody else done this? I have a set of foam padded blocks and really don't like their lack of grip in use. This mod seems neat, and at first glance, looks like it would work well.

Thoughts?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=o7NguY5e2RU
Semper fi,
Brad

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#18
Seems to me to be a good idea if you are double careful about how much you have to remove with the planer.

And remember about the density of each species of wood when jointing. And whether the board is warped(needing more pressure).

Those concerns may just me being over cautious.
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#19
Why would a warped board need more pressure than one that isn't? If you apply too much pressure you'll bend the board, negating the work done by the jointer.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#20
Bad idea.

Somehow stabbing little holes in the wood doesn't seem appealing to me.

A 2x4 with a dowel for a hand and a little shoe on the back works fine.
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#21
rwe2156 said:


Bad idea.

Somehow stabbing little holes in the wood doesn't seem appealing to me.

A 2x4 with a dowel for a hand and a little shoe on the back works fine.





Why is it a bad idea?

Like he said in the video, holes in the upper surface will be removed by the planer.
Semper fi,
Brad

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#22
®smpr_fi_mac® said:


[blockquote]rwe2156 said:


Bad idea.

Somehow stabbing little holes in the wood doesn't seem appealing to me.

A 2x4 with a dowel for a hand and a little shoe on the back works fine.





Why is it a bad idea?

Like he said in the video, holes in the upper surface will be removed by the planer.


[/blockquote]

If your stock is thick enough, not much of an issue, but when you're trying to squeeze 3/4 out of 7/8 thick stock, not so much. I think its overkill myself, I'd rather go with 80 grit sandpaper on the flats if it bothered me that much, or replace the rubber with better gripping rubber. I'm not really offended by how mine grip, and they are 15 years old. You can as suggested also make a shoe with a notch, but you still need downward pressure at the start.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#23
don't miss steel on steel is bad JU JU

Quote:

Why would a warped board need more pressure than one that isn't? If you apply too much pressure you'll bend the board, negating the work done by the jointer.





And not enough will just let the stock ride up the knives.

I am not going to lie to you I have not used those type of push blocks well but once.

I hated them and now the only time I use anything it is a wooden push shoe like the larger one in a too large pic



Point being the position of your hands in the use of a jointer are at far less risk directly on the stock ( but not over the knives) than a couple of mediocre plastic blocks that can slip

If you want a grip surface figure out how to apply sandpaper to the block

Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future  John F. Kennedy 



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#24
Them's the ones. Standard hold-down foam, and long with a heel for transport, like you use on the tablesaw. Metal and those knives spinning is looking for trouble, especially since it's unnecessary.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#25
those stock plastic push blocks are pretty crappy. You can easily make better ones similar to what Joe posted (though his are pretty fancy). If you want friction, LV sells high friction material that you can stick on the bottom.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick

Mark

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#26
Cool. Thanks for the discussion.

I have a push block that has the heel on it, like the picture above. It's my go-to for my right hand when jointing.
Semper fi,
Brad

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Jointer push block mod (mending plates)?


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