Picture frame?

[goaliedad]

I am going to make some pucture frames from wood hockey sticks
If I am going to add a matt, how deep should I make the rabbet- for the glass, Matt and backing?
Also- are glazer points enough to keep the glass in place?

[Window Guy]

It all depends on the thickness of your total materials. Glass for instance will be either 1/16 single strength or 1/8" Double strength. My guess would be approximately 3/8" but again double check the total of the material being used before you cut your rabbit. Glazier points should work fine for holding your back in.


Steve

[Rob Young]

Last frame I did I used 1/2" for depth and 1/4" for width. Generally I prefer the frame to be at least 7/8" thick material so that I can have nice bevels on the inside as a reveal.

Single strength glass, double mat, mounting board + 1/4" MDF to make sandwich. Ended up flush and I prefer to use the little brass turn-buttons for stuff up to 11x14. Easier to mount and less likely for me to bugger things up than trying to push in glazer's points in hardwood.

[Bill Wilson]

If you use glazier points, do you need to make the rabbet deeper than the combined thickness of the glass/matt/backing, to allow room to install them?

[Rob Young]

Bill Wilson said:

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If you use glazier points, do you need to make the rabbet deeper than the combined thickness of the glass/matt/backing, to allow room to install them?

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Yep, they need sufficient meat to bite into without splitting/tearing out.

I've switched to mostly using something like this (Rockler's link but you can find them other places):
http://www.rockler.com/turn-buttons

[Cooler]

Rob Young said:

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[blockquote]Bill Wilson said:

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If you use glazier points, do you need to make the rabbet deeper than the combined thickness of the glass/matt/backing, to allow room to install them?

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Yep, they need sufficient meat to bite into without splitting/tearing out.

I've switched to mostly using something like this (Rockler's link but you can find them other places):
http://www.rockler.com/turn-buttons

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[/blockquote]

He will need about 1/8" of extra depth. He can drive the points on a downward angle if that depth is not available. I've always used a point driver: https://i.ytimg.com/vi/wUDS7gX9Bu8/maxresdefault.jpg

You can install using brads and a brad pusher: https://www.amazon.com/Crown-110XW-Brad-...B001C04FYO

This is a useful tool for other purposes also. A magnet holds the brad in the tube and a push drives the pin into the wood as the spring loaded outer tube retracts.

I tried using my point driver on red oak once and the points would not drive in deep enough to be useful. So tests on the hockey sticks will be necessary.

[goaliedad]

Thanks all! No glazer points- brass tabs on the back.

It will be a while before I make any frames, but this information really helps

[Cooler]

You will make a "sandwich" of the single strength glass, the mounted image and the backing board. You will need to leave enough room for the glazing points. But picture frames are usually make from fairly soft woods and I am not convinced that you will be able to drive the points into the hocky sticks (ash?) which has to be a pretty tough material.

You might be better served securing the image from behind by gluing a sheet of black mat board. "Paint the edges of the mat board with a black magic marker to make it dark.

Adhesive transfer tape (double faced tape without the carrier) will work fine for this. You may have to pad the sandwich to fill the available space.

But first check to see if you can drive the points into the hockey sticks. If you can you should ignore all I've said above.

The alternative is to make the frame with no rabbets and then glue 1/4" stock to the rear of the frame to create the rabbet. This will give a full-depth frame out of the hockey stick and may look better.