Add Cockbeading to Table Rails?

[Strokes77]

I'm building a small side table out of Alder. I have the idea to add cockbeading around the table rails. I've never done this before, and I tried googling, but couldn't find much info.

Is it as simple as making a strip of wood, rounding over the edge with my #4, and glueing it to the bottom of the rails? It's cross grain, but it's ok?

I am not considering cutting a rabbet or anything; the underneath/back of it will be hidden.

I would do this after I cut the tenons, and just build the piece to fit between the shoulders.

Thoughts?

[WoodTinker]

I think pictures or drawings would help.

Does this table have drawers?

If I understand what you want, then adding a small strip with rounded edge to the bottom of the rails all around the table?

Any offset of the rails from the legs. I would move the rails slightly back from the legs (indented 1/4" to 3/8"). Why not add the beading to the top and bottom of the rails? How thick are the legs? Are the legs tapered?

[Strokes77]

WoodTinker said:

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Does this table have drawers?

If I understand what you want, then adding a small strip with rounded edge to the bottom of the rails all around the table?

Any offset of the rails from the legs. I would move the rails slightly back from the legs (indented 1/4" to 3/8"). Why not add the beading to the top and bottom of the rails? How thick are the legs? Are the legs tapered?

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No drawers.
Yes, a rounded edge to the bottom of all 4 table rails.
I hadn't thought of adding one to the top as well, not sure you'd be able to see it with the top overhang?

No taper at the mortised spot of the legs. 6" or so of flat before sweeping taper begins.

1.5" square legs, 7/8" thick 3 7/8" wide rails. All of these measurements are approximate, I don't measure things much because of using hand tools for it all. The offset would be 3/8" or so.

Should the bead extend past the offset, or less than?

I'll work on a sample and try to get a pic.

[AHill]

If you have an old saw blade, you could make a scratch stock to add the bead. Otherwise, sounds like the perfect opportunity to convince yourself you need a LV Small Plow with a beading blade. Or, the more affordable route is a Ron Hock scratch stock. Comes with the bamboo holder and two scratch stock blades and is only $32.

[Bill_Houghton]

AHill said:

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If you have an old saw blade, you could make a scratch stock to add the bead. Otherwise, sounds like the perfect opportunity to convince yourself you need a LV Small Plow with a beading blade. Or, the more affordable route is a Ron Hock scratch stock. Comes with the bamboo holder and two scratch stock blades and is only $32.

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The effect of a bead cut on the bottom of the apron is a little different from the effect of cockbead sticking out. Both are traditional; both, in my opinion, look good.

[Paul K. Murphy]

Crossgrain construction?
What crossgrain construction?
You want to cockbead the bottom edge of a table rail. I'm seeing long grain to long grain.
I think the idea is fine. I agree with others who have said to offset the rail to stile (leg) joint. A small offset, and the bead can terminate at the joint; die, as its sometimes called.
Then...you mentioned tapers.
Hmmnnn?
What kind of table are you building?
I intend to put a bead along the lower edge of the rail on this little table.

In my case, I'm going to go across the leg in a dado with the molding, and it will be mitered at the outside corner. Mine is captured in a rabbet.*
This is meant to give this little (Chippendale) table an artifice that imitates a Classical Greek architectural order. The entire rail area will imitate an entablature.
Bottom edge of rail bead= architrave
Flat portion of rail (fretted)= frieze
Beaded edge of table top= cornice (after a manner of speaking)
All this is because I'm building a very traditional 18th century table here. I'm intentionally introducing Classical elements.
Is that what you're trying to do?

*Please understand this post as a design post, and NOT a construction post. There is reason to rabbet mine, and possibly no reason to rabbet yours. I'm just trying to understand where you're going design-wise. Also; I capitalized Classical on purpose. I'm specifically referring to the Classical Era; Ancient Greece and Rome.

[barryvabeach]

Steve Latta is your man, you have to wait through a sponsor message, but he goes over two ways to ***** bead a drawer, same principles for the apron. http://www.finewoodworking.com/woodworki...ading.aspx

[Strokes77]

This is what I was trying to do... I'm gonna finish it up. I think it looks super cool. I will update when finished. I just ripped the strups then used the #4 to round the profile I wanted.

Should I glue the table together first then glue these on.. right? Less chance for a problem that way than gluing these on first.

[blackhat]

I'd glue the structural base and square it, glue your strips on while they're easy to clamp and add the top last.

[Derek Cohen]

Strokes77 said:

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I'm building a small side table out of Alder. I have the idea to add cockbeading around the table rails. I've never done this before, and I tried googling, but couldn't find much info.

Is it as simple as making a strip of wood, rounding over the edge with my #4, and glueing it to the bottom of the rails? It's cross grain, but it's ok?

I am not considering cutting a rabbet or anything; the underneath/back of it will be hidden.

I would do this after I cut the tenons, and just build the piece to fit between the shoulders.

Thoughts?

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A table I built several years ago incorporated an applied cockbead along the lower rails, as you describe ...




Link to build:

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/A...rsDay.html

Regards from Perth

Derek