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When clamping the panels on my chest, a bottom clamp was not tight enough and now there are "gaps".  The "gaps" are on a back corner. I used Liquid Hide Glue (Titebond) which is water soluable. Two solutions I see. 1) Apply hot water with an eye dropper to the joints, dig out the softened glue with a dental pick until the joints free up. Will this approach work? 2) Fill the gaps with liquid hide glue and be done with it since its on a back corner and will only be noticed by me. The Chest is for my grand daughter and it will be an heirloom so I want to make it look nice. Of course plan 1) is preferred -- if it will work. Any other thoughts on how to soften up the glue. Recommendations please. Dave
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clamp it with steady pressure and heat the glue with a heat gun or hair drier, be patient. It should close up.
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I would try that first. It will take some time but the glue does soften.
John
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make a clamp batten that only applies force to the wood you want to move... this will keep the clamps centered over the end of the chest.
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Don't leave it. Nobody else will ever notice but it will eat you up. You can "unsee" it.
The heat thing sounds like a good idea. I wouldn't have thought of that.
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you dont need to dig out glue. More hide glue re-activates old glue just fine.
I would spritz the joist really well with water and slowly add clamping pressure. you can even add more glue in there. By paying close attention and adding water/glue as needed, it will loosen and close the gaps. The problem with a heat gun is you can scortch/burn the wood really quickly wiht a lapse in paying very close attention.
Another trick is to lay a wet paper towel on the wood and "iron" the wet paper towel. only touch the itron to the paper towel and only for a few seconds at a time. Continue to add water to the paper towel as required. This method works wonders on dents.
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Sawdustd said:
When clamping the panels on my chest, a bottom clamp was not tight enough and now there are "gaps".
I used Liquid Hide Glue (Titebond) which is water soluable.
Franklin liquid hide glue is completely reversible. By adding water, spray mist the joint, and heat, low to medium setting heat gun, or an iron set to high. You will get Man points, and live a longer life if you buy a cheap iron, instead of using the wife's. Go slow and try to remove all the glue. After it has dried I use a fine file to just get the little bits left in the corners. Then re-glue, and use clamps with enough pressure to close the joints. Don't assume, look. It is possible the joint will appear sticky enough after you have started to loosen it with the H2O and heat. DO NOT be lulled into thinking, gee I could just reclamp it from here. Once heated the glue looses a lot of it's binding strength, so you will be working with weak glue. Remove the glue, before putting in new glue. If you have questions contact Franklin, they have an awesome customer service department. Franklin International 2020 Bruck Street Columbus, Ohio USA 43207 Customer Service Phone 1.800.669.4583 Fax 1.800.879.4553 concustserv@franklininternational.comAs an aside when I clamp a long joint like that closed I overlay the joint with a caul (2x4) cut to length, and bowed just a slight bit so when you clamp the outer edges, the entire thing comes down flat to your joint, and keeps even pressure on all of the DT's or finger joints. Sometimes when doing these at first you may want a 3rd, 4th, or maybe even 5th hand in there to help hold the cauls, and get the clamps adjusted.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya 
GW
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Steve N said:
As an aside when I clamp a long joint like that closed I overlay the joint with a caul (2x4) cut to length, and bowed just a slight bit so when you clamp the outer edges, the entire thing comes down flat to your joint, and keeps even pressure on all of the DT's or finger joints. Sometimes when doing these at first you may want a 3rd, 4th, or maybe even 5th hand in there to help hold the cauls, and get the clamps adjusted.
I make small chests for our church to present to newly baptized members. I use box joints on the corners. I made special cauls that are notched to apply pressure only to the face board. Each corner gets 2 cauls for a total of 8 cauls and 8 clamps on each chest glue-up. After making a few dozen of these, I've got a fairly good system worked out, but the first few were nerve wracking.
If you are going down a river at 2 mph and your canoe loses a wheel, how much pancake mix would you need to shingle your roof?
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Thanks all. I'll try the iron and water approach and let you know the outcome.
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I emailed Franklin, the answer below. I was surprised they said nothing about direct heat, but they did say warm water worked better. I have used heat, and it worked ok. George, Good afternoon. Thank you for using our Titebond Liquid Hide Glue! This product is soluble in water, and thus will soften with moisture and humidity. Therefore, soaking the interested joints in water will allow for disassembly. We cannot say how long it will take for the glue to come apart, but warmer water will make the process go faster. Once apart, you need not make sure all the previous hide glue is removed prior to regluing as hide glue will stick to itself, but the previous hide glue should be dry before your second attempt. Please let us know if you have any further questions or concerns. Sincerely and with best regards, Paul Pavka Franklin International Titebond Products Construction Technical Service PaulPavka@FranklinInternational.comTechnical Service Line: 800-347-GLUE www.titebond.com
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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The "gaps" are on a back corner. I used Liquid Hide Glue (Titebond) which is water soluable. 
