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All, in a fit of inspiration I whipped out this box, using the hinges you can see. It looks okay, but with boxes details which wouldn't be noticed in 'furniture' really catch the attention. In this case, the placement of the hinges is just a tiny bit off. When the lid is closed, the lid at the front is 'slid to the left' by a about a millimeter. A tiny amount, but the hand sure finds it and notices it first thing. I used a marking gauge to locate the center of each hole, a brad point bit to try to get right there. But it's not perfect. What is the 'professional' method for getting this dead perfect? I know it can be done. I've seen PLENTY of boxes, particularly cigar boxes, done to what looks like machinist tolerances. What is the secret? 
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What is the 'professional' method for getting this dead perfect? I know it can be done. I've seen PLENTY of boxes, particularly cigar boxes, done to what looks like machinist tolerances. What is the secret?
plane the box after you set the hinges. it is wood, it will move even after you do this and machinist accuracy is not an option.... If you want that use metal
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So on the boxes (and I'm thinking the cigar ones) where the box is covered over with veneer and marquetry, is that what they're doing? Using maybe a thick veneer and just treating it like regular wood? Here is a 'lid closed' pick. Two more coats of danish oil, and I'm calling it done. By the way, you can look at the splines and see where I nee to buy a 'flattop' saw blade. Besides basic shop crappery, this is my first project using a tablesaw. Man....I can't believe it took me this long! 
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Overall, you created a pretty nice looking box
When I cut my slipfeathers for the joint, I make them slightly oversized and plane the middle a hair.
I push them snugly up against both corners then cut them back with a Japanese DT saw.
It eliminates the visible gap.
Gary
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I would say make yourself a jig with a hole in it that references off the back and one side of the box. Just a square of plywood with two stops on it. Locate the hole and drill through the jig and into the box where your first hinge will go. After the first hole just flip your jig from corner to corner on the top and bottom to drill the rest of the holes. As long as the top and bottom are the same size they should be dead on.
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As long as the top and bottom are the same size they should be dead on.
the jig would have to at least steel bushed to get any closer than 1mm , dead straight and 100% tight to the box sides In essence I disagree Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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Well Joe, I guess we will just have to agree to disagree. I have use a similar method many times and it has always worked well. As long as the original poster uses the drill press, is careful to place the bit in the center of the hole, and clamps the jig in place this method should work fine.
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I'm certainly no wizard, but when I'm off by a small amount I sand to smooth (hand planes would work too). No one's perfect (at least repetitively).
My 2¢
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Beautiful box. I have made maybe 20 jewelry boxes with this type of hinge over the years. If you are building a box where you cut the lid off, you can drill the holes from the top before cutting off the lid. When you cut off the lid, the holes will be perfectly aligned. I then plug the hole in the top and veneer it. This method will work only if you are going to veneer the top. Another thing that has caused me problems but I see you avoided is to try to center a 3/8" hole in a 1/2"box wall, especially if doing it blind from through the top. Barrel hinges look nice and work well buy they are devilish in that any deviation from perfect in placing the holes will show up at the top edge. The cockeyed look of the top sitting at an angle on the bottom will instantly draw your eye to the defect, especially if you made the box and know it is there. Ken
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Here's a pretty neat method. The guy uses what he calls a spacer shim. It's a piece of wood exactly the same length as top or bottom, but the holes are drilled all the way through the shim. The shim is then placed over the parts to be drilled, ensuring exact alignment. One other thing he really doesn't mention is when you install the hinges, you must make sure the hinge itself is aligned perpendicular to the edge of the box. You can avoid racking by waiting until the hinges are installed to tighten the screws that wedge the barrels into the hole. http://woodworkstuff.net/Hinge5.html
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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