#23
I've replaced some stock blades with the Veritas PM-V11 blades, and I've been using them all summer. Thus far I'm nothing short of impressed with how well they work. They do, however, have some different characteristics, some of which I wasn't exactly prepared for.

1. As advertised, they don't hone well on my Arkansas stones. The diamond stone works very well on them, and I do still use an Arkansas stone just before the strop, but it doesn't do a whole lot. The charged strop works just fine.

2. They grind cool. It's not as easy to blue an edge on these as it is on some of my regular carbon steel blades, and I'm very grateful for that. I'm still learning how to use a grinder correctly, and the PM-V11 has been pretty forgiving.

3. When sharpening it on my diamond stone, I never raise much of a burr. On softer steels, I often get a massive burr that tells me I've gotten all the way to the edge, but with the PM-V11 I can barely feel a burr at all, especially if my hands are at all dirty. So I'm still learning to feel when I've honed all the way to the cutting edge. When I first got one of these blades and was resharpening it, I kept going and going on the stone, expecting to raise a burr, and eventually I realized that I had been at the edge for quite some time. This was the biggest surprise with these blades, and I'm still not quite used to it.


I've especially appreciated the longevity of the cutting edges in my planes and spokeshave. With the O-1 spokeshave blade, I was having to resharpen a lot when making wooden spoons, and that was cutting into my production time. I can work almost twice as long without having to resharpen the PM-V11 spokeshave blade. I'm so glad I upgraded.
Steve S.
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Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot

Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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#24
Steve, I have a number of PM-V11 chisels, and have been very impressed. The only plane blade I have is on the LV shooting plane, and since I only use it with that plane, I can't make any comparison about durability of the edge.
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#25
I recently lucked in to a whole set of PMV-11 chisels on Craigslist. I fell in love. I don't like the veritas hand planes because of the upright tote, but I might consider one day replacing the old stanley irons I have with pmv11...

The edge retention is seriously improved over anything else I had tried before, LN A2 or old steel.
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#26
Strokes77 said:


I recently lucked in to a whole set of PMV-11 chisels on Craigslist. I fell in love. I don't like the veritas hand planes because of the upright tote, but I might consider one day replacing the old stanley irons I have with pmv11...

The edge retention is seriously improved over anything else I had tried before, LN A2 or old steel.




Doesn't LV sell PMv11 for Stanley Planes? I know the blades can be a turkey shoot for all the variants of block planes--and the clones. Also, Cohen may have an article on his site for realigning the tote to more closely match Stanley. They are also bothersome for me due to arthritis. I suppose I could jack up the planing bench.
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#27
hbmcc said:

...
Doesn't LV sell PMv11 for Stanley Planes? ...




PMv11 for Stanley Planes
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#28
Steve, Do you use the cap iron as well? If so, how do you like them? If you don't mind me asking, what size plane blades are you using and did you have to open the mouth of the plane up to accommodate the replacement set-up?

Thanks
Tom.
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#29
My plane irons are both the same size: #4 1/2 and #7s. On my #7 (actually a Sargent 22, but that's another labeling system) I kept the old chipbreaker, and it just barely fits. I moved the frog back a little but didn't have to open the mouth at all to accommodate the thicker iron. I kept the stock chipbreaker because the Sargent's hole for the depth adjuster is not in the same place as Stanely's. I think Ron Hock is about the only one who makes replacement chipbreakers for the Sargents (by request).

My 4 1/2 has the Veritas chipbreaker as well. It works just fine. I did blunt the leading edge a little so it would break chips. Took a couple seconds on my coarse diamond stone.

I didn't have to open the mouth of the 4 1/2 at all. I didn't even move the frog. I had the flog placed pretty far back since I rely on the chipbreaker, not the mouth, to reduce tear out.
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot

Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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#30
I purchased an iron and chip breaker set for a #3. The blade fits (and works) well but the chip breaker doesn't - the hole for the screw is about 1/8" high which pushes the breaker past the sole of the plane. Nothing wrong with the LV chip breaker, just differences in manufacturing over the years means that the LV doesn't fit every type.
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#31
Hmmm. My experience with Stanleys is that the chip breakers are pretty much universal and interchangeable between types. Do you happen to know what type you have? Just curious if there's a range of types that the aftermarket chip breakers don't work on.
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot

Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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#32
Now that Steve has responded I'll chime and say that I have two Stanleys with LV PMV-11 irons and chipbreakers: one # 4 and one #608 (roundside.) Both were ground by TableSaw Tom. For both planes the irons and breakers were a drop in - no work required.

YMWV
Thanks,  Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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Veritas PM-V11: Some Observations


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