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So I've only had the permit to build the shed for 6 months now, and LOML is already saying she doesn't think I'll ever build it. Really, I have 6 more months before the permit expires, dunno what she's thinking.
I have 3 issues before I go out and buy everything
I had really settled on using 6x6 pressure treated as a base, and back filling with gravel. However, most sheds seem to be built on blocks for ease of leveling -- you only have to level the blocks, not a heavy base. I think with my critter problems, I might be better off having it on blocks. The other issue with backfilling is the inconvenience of having gravel delivered.
I am thinking about using SmartSiding or T1 11 for the siding. Probably go with one of the prefinished versions due to ease of maintenance. Shed will be 10x12, is there any reason for more bracing than supplied by the siding?
Should the roof be pressure treated ply? I haven't decided if I should go with metal roding or shingles that match the house at this point
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I used smart siding for my shop and my tractor barn. Would never use wood T-111 again.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick
Mark
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yeah, I figure with how slow I am to get around to things, the need for maintenance would not be a good thing with the T1 11. What fasteners did you use with the smart siding?
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8d galvanized nailgun nails. ~6" around the perimeter, ~12" in the field.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick
Mark
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I stick built a 12' by 20' shed several years ago.
Leveled the area, laid 6" by 12" by 1" pavers and set 6" by 6" PT beams. Used home made eye pins 20" long to drive in the inside and lag bolt to the beams.
Spread 6 mil plastic over the whole frame and nailed in 2" by 6" floor joists(on top of the plastic, in joist hangers) 12"OC across the 12' dimension.
Used 3/4" T&G PT ply for the floor. Built each wall and raised in place(used 1" by 4" stiffeners on the long sides from top one end to bottom other end and double screwed to each wall stud.
Installed ceiling joists(2" by 4") across the width.
Built the 12/12 pitch---for shedding snow) roof structure in two halves(center peak support was two 1" by 6" boards with rafters attached. Installed horizontal spacers for screwing on the metal roof panels(standing seam). Left the filter out of the ridge cap and had a ready made ridge vent. Got snow blowing in twice in 15 years.
Used T1-11 siding, built plywood swinging double doors, and then an add on side shed for wood storage later.
Primed/painted and painted the trim. Never had to do any maintenance in the 15 or so years I had it and watched it for another 15 or so.
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I built a 12x12 last summer, used smart siding. I would frame the floor and brace it square, then level it on blocks. I would not use the gravel. It will be a lot lighter without the flooring on it. Then put the flooring down, then you have a nice platform to build the walls. frame the walls then tip them up. If you can make the wall height something like 7'6'" you can run the siding down onto the rim joists to help tie the walls in without having to buy more material. I did 2x4 for roof rafters, with rafter ties. There are calculators online that will lay out the rafter cuts for you.
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Not sure where you are located but I just went through this myself. I'm in NC and found a supplier named Leonard Buildings. I got a 10 x 12 , pressure treated base, 3/4 floor , 2 x 4 on 167" centers with corner bracing, 2 x 4 on 24" center roof, vinyl siding, metal roof, window and double vinyl doors. It sits on 3 4 x 4 skids and is blocked up at 3 points on each skid. $3200 delivered and leveled. My point is I don't think I could have built it for that money. There is also a 7 year warranty on the building.
I was going to use gravel under it but decided to round up the grass before it was delivered. I plan on adding some 4 x4 borders to it and back filling the edges with stone.
I would definitely at least look at getting prebuilt structure as an alternative to building yourself. I was very impressed with this particular supplier - not anywhere near the home depot level of storage building.
Rick
Rick
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My brothers and I built a 10 x 12 for mom last fall in 3 days
PT wood floor, T111 siding, metal roof ,stacked walls 2' OC and an oversize swing door
Maybe you just need some help :idea:
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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Why not build on concrete? Most folks here don't build on slabs because they require permits on slabs and no permits on skids. Since you have a permit...
Rocket Science is more fun when you actually have rockets.
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(07-22-2016, 09:17 AM)Mr_Mike Wrote: Why not build on concrete? Most folks here don't build on slabs because they require permits on slabs and no permits on skids. Since you have a permit...
I would need a building permit. I have a zoning permit. You need both except for simple buildings. For example, no electrical wiring. Last summer I had a lawn contractor put down gravel and compact it. So I have a good base to build on. Concrete would delay things too much. We have too much building going on around here, the lawn contractor was really hard to get.
As far as needing help, I'm probably ok on that front. Just need to figure out the details so I can start building. I've got two kids home from college for the next little bit I have a batch of reclaimed lumber I'm going to use for the structure, just going to have to buy ply and the base.
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