#13
I'm thinking of making something that needs a thin (1/8' - 1/4") lamination of wood in a U shape, with a 2" radius. The strips need to be 4" wide.
It's for a cover on a machine, and doesn't have to be cabinet grade. 
A few questions.
For a 2" radius, how thin do I need to cut the laminations?
Cut with band saw or table saw?
The ts, would give nice glue ready surfaces. I thought I would resaw 2" wide thin strips, and when laminating around a form, stack  the 2" strips to make 4" I have Cypress, white Oak, SYP, and some 2x4's I could use.
How good of a surface is needed for glueing the strips?
Thanks for any advise.
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#14
Personally, I use my GRR-RIPPERS with the 1/8" leg to cut thin strips for laminating, but based on your use, band sawn faces of decent quality will work fine. The glue joint will be plenty strong, just not as pretty as table sawn strips.

Ralph
Ralph Bagnall
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#15
(07-30-2016, 09:44 PM)Pirate Wrote: I'm thinking of making something that needs a thin (1/8' - 1/4") lamination of wood in a U shape, with a 2" radius. The strips need to be 4" wide.
It's for a cover on a machine, and doesn't have to be cabinet grade. 

Make a solid corner and veneer.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#16
(07-31-2016, 06:21 AM)MichaelMouse Wrote: Make a solid corner and veneer.

How exactly is he supposed to make a solid radiused part 1/4" thick and then veneer it?

Ralph
Ralph Bagnall
www.woodcademy.com
Watch Woodcademy TV free on our website.
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#17
(07-31-2016, 07:43 AM)handi Wrote: How exactly is he supposed to make a solid radiused part 1/4" thick and then veneer it?

Ralph

While it may not be the most efficient way to accomplish the task it could be done 

They veneer 1/4" sheet stock all the time 

It may well be a more elegant solution opposed to building up thin lamination parts
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#18
(07-31-2016, 07:43 AM)handi Wrote: How exactly is he supposed to make a solid radiused part 1/4" thick and then veneer it?

Ralph

You don't make it a 1/4" thick.  Its like a radiused glue block.

Or kerf and bend your backing. Either has a long history in woodworking.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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#19
(07-30-2016, 09:44 PM)Pirate Wrote: I'm thinking of making something that needs a thin (1/8' - 1/4") lamination of wood in a U shape, with a 2" radius. The strips need to be 4" wide.
It's for a cover on a machine, and doesn't have to be cabinet grade. 
A few questions.
For a 2" radius, how thin do I need to cut the laminations?
Cut with band saw or table saw?
The ts, would give nice glue ready surfaces. I thought I would resaw 2" wide thin strips, and when laminating around a form, stack  the 2" strips to make 4" I have Cypress, white Oak, SYP, and some 2x4's I could use.
How good of a surface is needed for glueing the strips?
Thanks for any advise.

Here is my method.Band saw or table saw 2+" wide x 1/16" thick and longer than you need.2" radius is very tight,that is why 1/16" would be the maximum I would try.Then add water softener to very hot water. place strips in the vessel and cover it up to hold the heat.After 10 /15 minutes remove a strip and try the bend.If all goes well then clamp up the rest of the strips dry,no glue yet.I would fasten one end of the laminations together on one end with nails ,screws or a clamp,whatever suits you.This one reason why the strips should be longer than needed.
After the strips are in the form and dried,remove from the form.There will be some spring back but you can glue up the laminations and re-clamp.When the piece is done you can machine or sand to width and cut to length.
If you use epoxy with a thickener the surface is good enough coming off the band saw.
I would try the white oak, I have used white oak and SYP,both bend well,never tried to bend cypress.
mike
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#20
Try a solid 1/4" thick solid wood piece and then steam bend it.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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Strip thickness for 2" radius bend? ts? bs?


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