Red Oak, I Should Have Known Better

[gMike]

Actually, I do know better than to use Red Oak  to make a hollowed out tray (Router with a bowl bit).  Every bit of end grain on the inside of the tray is burned black.  The bad part is that I was pretty sure it would burn but didn't have another better bowl bit.  Looks like it's going to be a few hours hand sanding the inside ends of the tray.

Have I mentioned, I hate Red Oak!

[chips ahoy]

I agree, only use for it is fire wood.

Mel

[YSU65]

Wow, you guys sure are having trouble with red oak.  Maybe the bit was dull?  I clean up burn spots with a card scraper, then sand.  Stay away from cherry as it really burns....Tom

[Woodshop]

Maybe the bit was dull?
exactly
should avoid cherry and maple too , or have the bits and blades sharpened

[handi]

The wood species is not your issue.

A dull bit will burn any wood, and overheating your bit will dull it. Carbide is not a solid metal like steel, it is made up of carbide particles embedded in cobalt. Wears very well until it gets too hot. The cobalt begins to break down and the carbide particles fly off into space, and from the cutting edge first since it is thinnest.

So, first thing is to use a good quality, sharp and clean bit, but you knew that. Also, not all bits are the same even when brand new. I have had the opportunity to brand new cheap bits side by side with brand new quality bits in an actual work environment. There is a visual difference in cut quality even with the initial cut of both.

Second, make you cut in more passes taking shallower cuts. You need to keep the router moving as quickly as possible to prevent burning. (see below)

Third, turn the RPM down, and move the router as fast as possible, trying to avoid pausing with the bit in contact with the wood. This is counter intuitive until you realize that friction is causing the heat, and friction comes from the bit rubbing the wood too many times in the same area. Proper RPM and Feed Rate are something you learn in CNC work since you can control both.

Finally, rough out your bowl but leave 1/32" behind and make one final clean up pass removing that 1/32". You will be able to remove any burn marks because you can move the bit quickly over the wood to keep it from heating up too much.

I admit that none of this helps you now, but I post it for future reference.

[AHill]

I don't believe I've ever had issues with red oak burning.  And I've built several projects with RO, including with lots of curved cuts and routing.  I agree with the other posts that point the finger at a dull router bit.  Or a dirty bit that needs to be cleaned.  If you've been using the bit on pine or some other species with lots of sap, it could be you need to clean the bit.

[gMike]

The bit is old and has been used quite a lot.  I cleaned it up and sharpened it this morning with diamond stones.  I'm tied up today but I'll give it a try tomorrow and see whether there is improvement in the burning.

I still hate Red Oak!

[MichaelMouse]

I have some diamond files I use to freshen the faces of my carbide bits - after they're de-gummed as necessary.  Been a good thing.  Same with shaper cutters.

[Bibliophile 13]

Red oak is a wonderful wood--if you can work it. Perhaps you've seen Peter Follansbee's work in red oak: Bible boxes, chests, wainscott chairs, etc. I agree it's not always the easiest wood to work, but I'm coming to appreciate it more and more.

[MichaelMouse]

Red oak is a wonderful wood--if you can work it.  Perhaps you've seen Peter Follansbee's work in red oak: Bible boxes, chests, wainscott chairs, etc.  I agree it's not always the easiest wood to work, but I'm coming to appreciate it more and more.

Caution!  "Red oak" refers to many species.  They don't have the same stuff south and west as the eponymous  Quercus rubra harvested up north.  Some of the crap dad worked with out in California does not deserve a fate beyond firewood, while the north makes some lovely stuff.

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d160/G...e37124.jpg