#15
Ok, I'll admit up front I'm not the world's greatest sharpener.  But anyway, I was working on my smaller chisels today and noticed they seemed to be catching a lot in the holes (the grid pattern that's built in to the diamonds) in my diamond sharpeners.  And coming out rounded and uneven.  Don't seem to have this with my larger ones or plane blades.  Is my technique screwy or a limitation of diamond sharpeners for smaller chisels? 

Thanks guys,

jim
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#16
Check the plates for flatness with a straightedge.  I did not have great experience with those things being flat.  Sounds like there's a slight dish in the surface.  If there's any doubt, try to sharpen with sandpaper on granite, glass, or tile and see if it solved the problem.  If yes,the diamond plate isn't flat anymore (if it ever was). 

To avoid the chisels digging in, use less pressure or just pull them instead of pushing them.  It may take a little longer, but at least you won't have the digging in problem.

I have no solution for the flatness problem.

Steve
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#17
I was doing great myself until I hit the 1/8" and 1/4" then my ham hocks just destroyed any hope, digging into waterstones is a catastrophe. As Steve said try just pulling them, allowed me to get an acceptable edge without a lot of wobble. I'm not gonna give up, just gonna keep practicing.
Love recognizes no barriers. It jumps hurdles, leaps fences, penetrates walls to arrive at its destination full of hope. Maya Angelou
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#18
You should be pulling the chisel not pushing like was said above. Are you using a honing guide? It may help you keep the chisel square against the stone.
Don
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#19
(09-05-2016, 07:35 PM)tnff Wrote: Ok, I'll admit up front I'm not the world's greatest sharpener.  But anyway, I was working on my smaller chisels today and noticed they seemed to be catching a lot in the holes (the grid pattern that's built in to the diamonds) in my diamond sharpeners.  And coming out rounded and uneven.  Don't seem to have this with my larger ones or plane blades.  Is my technique screwy or a limitation of diamond sharpeners for smaller chisels? 

Thanks guys,

jim



...........

I never buy the diamond plates with holes...the more holes you have in the plate, the LESS diamond you have. IMO, that's the only reason the manufacturer makes them like that. Plus they are not generally as "flat"..
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#20
Is your chisel narrower than the holes?  If so, you need a sharpening stone that's completely flat.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#21
I really don't like the dimpled sharpening stones--for exactly this reason. I had one once for knife sharpening, and I would always catch the point of the knife in the dimples. I eventually sprung for the continuous-surface stone, and I've never regretted it.

I suppose the dimpled surface is good for some things, like flattening waterstones, but I don't find it very good for day-to-day edge maintenance.
Steve S.
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#22
I think the price of made diamond plates and fact that they do wear out--regardless of dimpling--steered me to LV flattened plates and diamond paste. The only issue is cross contamination; but that happens with any poorly cared for honing sequence.
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#23
Thank you.  I had not thought about flatness, just the holes.  Ran out to the shop to check and sure enough I can see light under the straight edge, about a 1/32 worth.  Is that enough to make a difference in sharpening?

Thank you,
jim
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#24
Posted by tnff - 2016-09-05, 08:35 PM
Ok, I'll admit up front I'm not the world's greatest sharpener.  But anyway, I was working on my smaller chisels today and noticed they seemed to be catching a lot in the holes (the grid pattern that's built in to the diamonds) in my diamond sharpeners.  And coming out rounded and uneven.  Don't seem to have this with my larger ones or plane blades.  Is my technique screwy or a limitation of diamond sharpeners for smaller chisels? 

Thanks guys,

jim


No one has asked you whether you use a honing guide or freehand.

I've ground 1/8" chisels on a DMT plate (which has holes), and done so freehand. Still, I can see how it would be easy to catch the edges of holes. A honing guide may be easier to keep the blade level. I am assuming that is what you use.

Take light strokes. Only hone by pulling the blade back towards you.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
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Kind of a dumb sharpening question


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