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Location: Irving, Tx
I had a similar, but smaller, challenge. I drilled, then turned the blank and secured the tool with epoxy.
Don't know if that helps, but it worked for me.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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Square peg in round hole perfectly acceptable in woodworking. The tang is a BIG square nail. Turning tools have tapered tangs, so taper away, leaving as much section initially as you feel is necessary, say 1/2" if you're going to use it to pry. Allows you to taper the hole(s) by using larger and larger bits to lesser depths if you'd like. End up with that 3/8 or
skosh larger and set the tang in the hole. Drive it by hitting the end of the handle on your benchtop, and letting inertia drive it. don't hit the metal.
If it ever seems to be getting a bit loose, rap the end of the handle again, and it'll wedge and tighten.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestora...hisel.html
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Location: southeastern VA
Robo Hippy has a very good video on making a handle for a square tang tool by laminating 3 pieces of wood.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_HCjFdcfyaQ
Somethings to note:
- if you do put the tool in a pre-made handle with a round hole, break the corners on the tang first
- you do not need to put the whole tang in the handle. Depending on total length of the steel, 2-1/2" to 3" should be plenty.
- if the tool that your friend made for you is a skew, then break the long edges of the blade to make it move easier on the rest and to stop it cutting into a cast iron rest. The same concept applies to the long edges of scrapers that you are going to shear scrape with.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.