Knew Concepts blade size

[RonB1957]

Thinking about picking up a 5" Fret saw. I have the 8" coping saw and am not that thrilled with it. So I was wondering what blade size for cutting out dovetail waste and general use if I buy the 5" fret saw from them. Thank you.

[Aram]

Pegas #7 Skip Tooth Fret/Jewelers Saw Blades 

http://knewconcepts.com/blades.php

are a good choice.

[Steve N]

Lee used to suggest ottofrei.com for a source for Pagus blades, but it looks like they are no more. The Pegas blades are the best I have used. Lee is selling a dozen for 5 bux, only bettered by Woodworker.com at $4.99. I don't know woodworker.com. I know Lee, for a penny i'd stick with the guy making the saw.

[Mike Brady]

Ron, I have used the 5" since they became available.  Its does a great job on wasting dovetails. I don't remember ever overcutting on the blind side The blade mentioned is a good one for most woods.  I cut very close to the baseline on the tail board and then just lay the chisel in the knife cut and chop.  I even cut away some of the pin board waste on half-blinds instead of having to chop out everything.

You have to be careful inserting the fret blades into the saw so that the blade end does not bottom out at either end.  If you let it bottom out you will not be able to get a high enough blade tension.  Don't over-tension either.  Some people have sprung their frames 
 doing that...and you know that's just not right.


When sawing with a fret saw you just let the blade do its thing because forcing it just makes it deflect and not really cut.  Put the blade in for a pull stroke.  I sit while using the fret saw and just relax.

[RonB1957]

Thanks folks. Anyone use the titanium bird cage fret saws? 3"  or 5". I was hoping to take a peak at a couple of them during WIA, but that is not likely going to work out. So no trial for me.
       Any thoughts on these is quite welcome.
Thanks again, Ron

[Derek Cohen]

Thanks folks. Anyone use the titanium bird cage fret saws? 3"  or 5". I was hoping to take a peak at a couple of them during WIA, but that is not likely going to work out. So no trial for me.
       Any thoughts on these is quite welcome.
Thanks again, Ron

Ron, you really should just check my reviews page


Here is the link to the information you want: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews...etsaw.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

[AHill]

I can't remember who recommended it, but one woodworker recommended the fastest cutting blade for use in wasting dovetails.  So, whatever size has the lowest tpi.  If you waste a lot of dovetails, that makes sense.  If not, a finer blade provides a smoother cut.  The No. 7 is a good choice.  Woodcraft also sells Pegas blades.  Sadly, everyone who sells them provides only partial information on them.  I'd like to see length, tooth geometry, and tpi.  Don't get a reverse tooth geometry.  Those are for scroll saws.

Also, just my opinion, but I prefer the aluminum frame fret saw over the titanium bird cage frame.  The latter is stiffer, but I found it top heavy.  I also like the lever tensioning and rotating blade adjustment (that would be the $99 version).

[Steve N]

The ottofrei.com site used to have all that Allan, it was kind of like Joe Woodworker is to all thing veneer, a lot of how to info, and tips about which blade for what. A shame it's not there anymore.

[Derek Cohen]

I can't remember who recommended it, but one woodworker recommended the fastest cutting blade for use in wasting dovetails.  So, whatever size has the lowest tpi.  If you waste a lot of dovetails, that makes sense.  If not, a finer blade provides a smoother cut.  The No. 7 is a good choice.  Woodcraft also sells Pegas blades.  Sadly, everyone who sells them provides only partial information on them.  I'd like to see length, tooth geometry, and tpi.  Don't get a reverse tooth geometry.  Those are for scroll saws.

Also, just my opinion, but I prefer the aluminum frame fret saw over the titanium bird cage frame.  The latter is stiffer, but I found it top heavy.  I also like the lever tensioning and rotating blade adjustment (that would be the $99 version).

The #7 blade is a good balance between cutting fast and smooth. Too fast means that the teeth are coarse and likely to tear the wood fibres more. Fine lets you get closer to the baseline. Too fine and the saw cuts very slowly, and opens the way to the blade wandering along the baseline.

With regard the frames, I have not used the 3" size (only the 5" and 8"), but the 3" is logically the best size for a woodworker seeking a saw for dovetails. The swing weight would be lowest, and the stiffness should be greatest. Since the blades turn to 45 degrees, the depth of cut is still more than adequate.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Axehandle]

The titanium one is nice. I tried it at Highland. I don't like its styling at all though. I wish they would have made more out of titanium the way they make the aluminum ones. Because of this I have not considered the Firth of Forth version.