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I work all the way through the system including the 6000 and I also have a very fine disc using .5 micron abrasive from LV. If you sharpen everything well and then maintain them on the very fine materials, it doesn't take too long.
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My rule for sharpening no matter what method is when you have a good mirror that enough, better mirror, sharper. Sharper is always better, be able to shave with your chisels and it's sharp enough. Lately I've been using King water stones up to 6.000, there's better but I have these.
Jim
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If I accepted, that'd mean I didn't have any integrity..
AND then I'd meet your expectations as a politician..
Fred Kingston...052708
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I was sharpening to a really sharp edge, 20,000 to 36,000, and I still do go up pretty high if the chisel is just going to get light use like for paring. If it's a chisel that will get hit, hammer, mallet, whatever I only go to around 1500 to 2000 at the very top now. The edge at the finer grits is so sharp it becomes thin at it's edge, and in the long run you are repairing it a lot more often than you will if it is 400 or so. For chisels I really slam, like mortising chisels I only go to 220 or so. Leather disc, and a sharpening compound are cool, but you will need to play around some. All of the compounds aren't created equal, and the equivalent to a grit is more often than not mysterious.
Whatever you end up going with, do yourself a favor and buy disks from a 3rd party. Look around, they are out there.
6", PSA, grit needed, and if available always pay more for the XXXX strength paper/cloth backing.
1500 grit, 6" PSA, x 10 for 9 bux
Bulk looks good here.
Buy extra plates, remove a disc, you may as well pitch it. With several you can quickly move up grit by grit to wherever you want to be. You can also use MDF in 1/2" and it will work. At 20 bux a pop you can see the reasoning behind making your own.
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GW
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I am a bit of a heretic in this area. IN MY OPINION, spending time sharpening to a surgical finish can be a complete waste of time depending on the task.
Yes, for plane blades and hand carving tools I will hone to 1200 or even finer, but for chisels, almost never. I typically drill my mortises out then square them with bench chisels. In that case, that fine mirror finished edge you spent time creating vanishes with the first mallet strike. The finer the edge, the faster it goes away.
I prefer to sharpen to about 1000, and keep the Worksharp on the bench so I can hone the micro bevel as I work.
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Sounds like it is all a matter of personal preference. I take mine up to 12,000 but I rarely use a mallet on my chisels.
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Capt. Tony Tarracino
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Just to be contrary....
I use the WS3000 as my grinder and generally stop at 1000 and then move to the waterstones. I bought Stu's famous 3 stone set (1000, 6000, 13000) and that's what I use until a bevel needs resetting. The leather honing disk is what usually resides on the WS. Since only takes a couple seconds each on the 6K and 13K stones I take my edges up to 13K. I've not yet found that that to be a waste of time.
Thanks, Curt
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"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
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I work through the whole set of discs that come with the machine then I use the leather to finish if off. I will agree that doing the leather might be a bit over kill but I really like the look. I have done some for other people and they love the look also; they think I have done a great job for the price - lunch.
I will also say - the WS3000 is a god send for those who can't sharpen. I tried and tried and just couldn't do it well. So I bit the bullet and spent the $. Now I use my planes and chisels more often and with more confidence.
John
Always use the right tool for the job.
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