Finish help for Mahogany tool chest

[Strokes77]

I am about halfway through my current project, I'll try to give a status update soon.  But I need to go ahead and order the finish and start practicing with it.

I am making a small tool chest, from African mahogany.  In the past on other projects I have used danish oil, BLO, or shellac.  I haven't had good luck with shellac; I struggle to get even color.  I attribute it to either old finish (i.e. I let it sit too long on my shelf), or user error.  The only time I have had good success on a project, I went to the store, bought some shellac, and used it that day.  That project finished well...  

Here's the deal, I want to use either Tried and True or Waterlox.  I hear great things about both. I know one is an oil, and one is a varnish... I have never used either.  Which would look the best on mahogany, and for the application I'm using it for?

Which of these would be capable of being my go to finish for most of my projects?

[cputnam]

I believe Waterlox is a wiping varnish.  You can save money by making your own - just thin the varnish with mineral spirits.  Don't know about the other.  I would suggest to you that you try either garnet or ruby shellac.  TEST the finish 1st on some scrap.

[Skip J.]

Regarding your issue with the shellac getting old, just use shellac flakes and mix them up fresh when you need them.  As said above, they come in several different colors.  And test before use...

[Strokes77]

I will try that with shellac in the future.

I guess to simplify my question.  Is there a finish that looks better on mahogany that I should try?  And is that particular finish something that I could use here, and make it my mainstay?

[hbmcc]

African Mahogany has a very nice finish. Beautiful, and you have a heavy chest, too. Do some searches, and sign up for a Library Card. Flexner, or Teri Masss a..(?) will have the recipes for the best finish. Don't get hung up on Brands of varnish or urethane. Every test I have seen picks the garden variety, everyday brand at your super borg. If you want to wipe, just thin the stuff. 

If you use shellac, it is for sealing between types, colors and incompatible materials. I love shellac, but don't bother with the various colors--they are too subtle for tint. And the first time you drip a thinner on shellac it melts. Use only dewaxed and dry flakes from an on-line seller. Date the mix and toss after 6 months. The shellac in a can (Zinzer) is probably 3 years past the Best-By date; and time means useability with shellac.

[PeteW]

I love shellac, but don't bother with the various colors--they are too subtle for tint

Respectfully disagree. There's a huge range of tone between blond and garnet shellac. See, for example, this image from Shellac Shack:
http://www.shellacshack.com/colors.html

Adding more coats produces a deeper, darker colour. My favourite go-to finish! (You're right about thinner - and alcohol, but shellac is also an easy finish to repair).

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

If it were mine, I would probably use Watco Danish oil or a tung oil. My main goal would be a "close to the wood" finish. I would want to really feel the wood anytime I touched it. I wouldn't use a film finish and if I used a wipe on poly I'd keep my total coats low to avoid excessive build.

In all reality, you really don't need to protect the wood from much more than dirty finger prints. You won't be resting your coffee cup on it, resting dishes on it, or anything else a coffee table or kitchen table would see on a regular basis. No finish protects wood from dents. If I wanted to make it look like a piece of furniture, I'd use pre cat lacquer.

Danish or tung oil would pop the grain, enhance the color, and it's easily renewed. It's also readily available and easy to apply by hand. It's virtually impossible to screw it up.

[Anji12305]

Shellac and wax should look nice, you don't need UV protection in your shop, like you would for house goods.

Make sure to put some sort of vapor barrier on the bottom, if it will rest directly on concrete.

If you don't have built in handles, a pair of 3/4" HDPE strips tacked underneath will give clearance to grasp it underneath and keep it off the floor.

[MSRiverdog]

I used Waterlox on this, it does do a good job.  African Mahogany.

[Strokes77]

Thanks for all the ideas.  I guess I just lack confidence with the shellac after a bad experience.  And I got to thinking on this project (which is special to me) I wanted the best possible, no brainer finish...  Which for me, have always been oils.  But I haven't tried the fancy expensive stuff before...

Here's a couple shots of where I'm at now.  I wish I had more time I would be writing a build along.





Thanks.