Saw Plate Tensioning

[Admiral]

I have an otherwise great performing D-7 handsaw, but it has the annoying habit of vibrating at the toe when in use.  Now, that could be the result of bad technique, but I'm a pretty good sawyer, and my other saws don't have this characteristic.  I know saws are tensioned by hammer and anvil,  and while I've read Bob Smalzer's articles over at WKFine tools, I've been unable to find any other resources explaining the technique, which takes a fair amount of skill.  Anybody have any leads?

[Mike Brady]

I would PM Darryl Weir, who is the best saw technician I know of.  Forrest still hand tensions their circular saw blades, so the craft is not yet dead.

[thedanielmatt]

Would definitely be interested to hear more about this if you find any good resources or nuggets from someone like Darryl.

[tim_leo]

That's kinda weird because I have a D-7 that does the same thing. I always assumed it was because I don't have enough set, but maybe there is more to it. Can't wait to see what you find out.

[Bill_Houghton]

Maybe it's telling you that its real ambition is to be a musical saw: like this one!

Don't thwart its dreams!

[Pedder]

Can you measure the amount of set. More often the reason for the chatter, IMHO.

Cheers
Pedder

[Admiral]

Peddler, that's the first thing I checked, it's properly set, which is why I think it's a tension issue.

[sawnuts]

I have heard this complaint for sometime and I notice it myself occasionally.
The sides of the teeth contact the side of the kerf in both the cutting stroke as well as the return stroke. At the tooth line there is still a little friction in both directions. Because of this friction, the teeth will setup a vibration in the plate on the return stroke and that is what gets the blade vibrating. The further you retract the saw on the return stroke you put the blade in tension above the board and that concentrates the vibration in the tip that is not engaged below the board. 

Some saws do it more than others. I would think that a poorly set would contribute to this. Not to much set but and uneven set along the blade would contribute to the issue.
 I new Carl Bilderback and he always thought it was a good idea to lift the blade slightly on the return stroke. He aid it cleared the sawdust away from the kerf. It works, try it.  It might give you an indication if my theory has any merit.

Also, make sure your stance is good and you keep the saw in line with the cut. Have someone watch you as you cut. Most folks will respond if you give them permission to critique you.

Its more of an annoyance than anything.

[RonB1957]

Yep, I have heard that one too. Some either use very little set at the toe end or no set. Otherwise +1 to most mentioned above.

[RonB1957]

Ron Herman shows a reasonable example of tension tuning on one of his videos. I used his method on the last full size rip saw I made. Tapping the spine etc. from time to time with my finger and listening to the ring to gauge the amount of tension. Just don't hit the plate hard or you will distort the plate. :

Best wishes