Panel sled?

[Aram]

I'm starting my kitchen cabinet build. It would help if I built a panel sled to crosscut the plywood for the boxes. I've built a few crosscut sleds but never one for sheet goods.

My thinking so far:
- Single runner, single sided (doesn't straddle blade). I have some Kreg miter track lying around, so I'll probably use that.
- Rear fence only, which I think is pretty much standard for panel sleds
- Most likely workflow is rip the 4x8 sheets first, crosscut oversize with a circular saw, then cut to size on the TS with the sled.

Any feedback welcome. I don't have a good gut feeling on how big to make it. Any thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

[jteneyck]

You need a big sled to cut off big parts, and you have a lot of big parts in kitchen cabinets.  Here's mine, built about 20 years ago when I built my kitchen, and it's still working great.



It's a 4'x 4' x 1/2" plywood base, with two runners, two fences, and a guard over the top and at the back.  It's modeled off one described by the late Jere Cary in his book on building kitchen cabinets.   Here's a link to a page on my website where you can download a SketchUp model if you want.  Link
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[url=https://sites.google.com/site/jteneyckwoodworker/current-projects/sliding-crosscut-sled]John

[Aram]

Here's a link to a page on my website where you can download a SketchUp model if you want.  Link
[/url]
[url=https://sites.google.com/site/jteneyckwoodworker/current-projects/sliding-crosscut-sled]John

Thank you!

[Splinter Puller]

I have a large sled designed around cabinet carcass construction.  It is 26" deep between the front and rear fence and it is as wide as the tablesaw's  cast iron surface plus the metal wings.  I used dual runners.  The front fence is thick enough and tall enough to clamp extension stop blocks.  I can rip plywood into 8' x 23-1/4" pieces then stack a few up and cross cut these in the sled to cabinet height.   Its a bit heavy so I hang it high on the back of a door so I don't have to bend to pick it up when storing it.    Works great.

[Aram]

Thank you! That's very helpful.

[Splinter Puller]

Another tip is to build the toe kick as a seperate full length unit.  This will make the cabinet sides 30-1/2" and grant you three sides from each 8' length of plywood.   It also saves you having to notch in a toe kick for each side piece.

[Aram]

Another tip is to build the toe kick as a seperate full length unit.  This will make the cabinet sides 30-1/2" and grant you three sides from each 8' length of plywood.   It also saves you having to notch in a toe kick for each side piece.

That's what I wanted to do. But I am paying someone to do the install (as well as a ton of other remodeling) at he wants integral, not separate. Beats me why, but that's what he wants.

[museumguy]

If you are paying him to do the install, tell him he gets a separate base. It's going to save you material, depending on how many base cabinet sides you need, could be quite a bit of money. As was stated, you get 3 sides versus 2 per rip. I always enjoyed a separate toekick, to me it is easier to install.

[Aram]

If you are paying him to do the install, tell him he gets a separate base.

Why the heck didn't that occur to me?


Good idea.

[cputnam]

I'm doing the equivalent of a kitchen remodel - except in my "office".  If you can build a separate base and get it installed ( you or your guy) that will make the cab install so much easier.  As for the sled, I've gone the opposite route and use a track saw.  Happiness is.