#15
I am making a routed sign for a coworker that will be out on one of his clubs snowmobile trails.  I believe where it will be hung is under a small roof, so it won't take direct snow or rain.  I was going to use poly, but just saw that it isn't good for outdoor use because of sun damage.  The other factor is that the letters will be painted red, so i need a clear stain that can go over paint.  What would be my best option and with what type of paint should it be used?

Thanks
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#16
I just took a peek in my basement and found a rattle can of minwax indoor/outdoor spar urethane and a can of tripp exterior/marine super spar varnish. Would either of those work over glidden oil enamel? I read that these finishes will yellow with age, will this be very noticeable over the red paint?
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#17
Do not use anything urethane (you know that, I'm just agreeing with you). Take the can of Minwax and throw it away . I've never heard of Tripp marine spar, but if it's a true marine spar, it will hold up though you may not have enough for the several coats it will take. Anything oil based will be subject to the yellowing, and I would think you want to avoid that. If true, that pretty much leaves only a waterborne exterior finish. I think your best bet is exterior paint, without any tint. Cian used the Sherwin Williams #4 A 100 paint on some walnut ( a cross as I recall) and it's done very well. You could also use the Olympic #5 base in their exterior acrylic enamel...I happen to know it dries water clear because i got some. Other alternatives would be some of the GF products like HP, but be careful with some of them because they have sometimes have a color added to mimic the oil based counterparts.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
I didn't know that, why is it no good; because of the yellowing or does it just not hold up.

The Tripps varnish is in what appears to be a full 1qt can.  The board is only 8"x~55", I would think that can should get me plenty of coats.  How many would be best?  When you say the best bet is exterior paint, are you talking about the whole thing?  I made the sign out of a nice piece of maple, so I wanted to use something clear.  Will the varnish go over oil enamel?  Actually I just realized I have a can of Dutch Boy red  exterior acrylic latex, would that be compatible?

Thanks
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#19
The tint base dries clear.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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#20
Ah, got it now, thanks.
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#21
If you get an untinted paint base, it's look milky in the can, but will dry clear....water clear. If you use the oil base paint, it looks very much like oil based varnish, that amber cast that you may want to avoid. But for this to work, you have to get the paint base made for deep (dark) colors. The ones made for the lighter colors have some TIo2 in them (white pigment). Most of the brands call it it tint base #4, Olympic calls it #5, and some may just say "deep tint base" or such.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#22
Perfect, thanks again.

Bob
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#23
The problem is, clear film finishes will break down under the conditions you've described. Maple itself is not a particularly good wood for an outside sign, it has too much torque and it will cause the finish to crack, thus allowing water to penetrate the finish and promote discoloring and eventually rot. At this point I believe your best option is a greyish exterior stain. The maple will grey out over time anyway.
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#24
I hope you have better luck than I did with what Fred is saying to get at sherwin Williams. I went to two different stores, even printed out what Fred had said and they both acted like they didn't know what he was talking about. Talk d with the managers too.
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Bets finish for an outdoor sign?


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