Anyone have a Cub Cadet snow blower? Mine won't start...

[bennybmn]

So my snowblower is only two years old... I thought I ran it dry last year, maybe I didn't run it dry enough, or maybe that's just not the way to store it. (a friend of mine suggested a FULL tank of over-stabilized fuel) I had similar problems with my mower this summer, and what ended up fixing that was basically power washing the carb with carb cleaner. Problem with the snow blower is access to the carb. The manual is of course for 3 different engines, so it's hard to decipher what's what. I want to drop the float bowl, but of course I have a full tank of gas now, so I want to pinch the fuel line first. Then I want to hose it down with carb cleaner, exercise the float and needle, that should do it. But I'm hesitant... see photos below. Does anyone have one that looks like mine? Suggestions? 

I'm going to use links so I'm not "that guy" with the giant pictures.
Here's the engine. You can see the two acorn nuts at an angle on the corner. I think if I pull those the entire plastic shroud around the controls comes off and I can get at the intake. But the top lip is under the metal heat shield, and the right side wraps way around the engine. I just don't want to break anything...

The float bowl is directly under that corner. Again, I don't want to undo it until I can restrict the gas flow.

Does anyone have one that looks like mine? Suggestions? I'll take long term storage suggestions too :


Thanks!!

[EricU]

you need to be "that guy" and post the pics, your links don't work.  Don't they let you select the size? 800x600 usually works pretty well.

I'm trying to imagine why running it dry wouldn't be just as good as leaving stabilized fuel in it.  But I'm not an expert.

[CLETUS]

I can't see the pics... But before you take everything apart, if you have room, bang on the float bowl with a handle of a screwdriver. I've had good luck with that allowing the needle valve to drop and get the fuel flowing.

[EdL]

A 2 year old snowblower should have a fuel shut-off.....

Ed

[Cooler]

How old is the gas?

If it is from last season, get rid of it and get fresh.

I get rid of the old gas by putting about a gallon of it in a nearly full gas tank in my car.  It does not seem to make a difference when it is diluted 15 to 1.

[Cecil]

I made the mistake of buying a cub cadet snow blower.  It bucks like a mule.  I purchased some after market skids for it, and that helps.  If you are blowing a paved or concrete area, it should not be too bad.  My Troy Built, both MTD products, did not buck.

Now that you have listened to my complaint ...

I cannot see your pics, so I am not sure which model you have.  I have the 28" wide one.  I can check exact model later, if needed.

On mine, there is a fuel shut off between the choke and the throttle.

When priming, push in the primer bulb and hold for about three seconds, release for about 3 more.  Do this about 5 times.  Don't forget to hold the primer bulb in.  On other engines, I have simply pumped the primer.  Cub cadet instructions say to "Hold" the primer bulb.  It does make a difference.

I generally start with a full choke and a low, very low throttle.  If I have the throttle very high, it does not like to fire.

I use ethanol free, 91 octane fuel in all my small engines.

I run mine dry at the end of the season as well.

HTH.

[bennybmn]

[bennybmn]

Hey look at that! Thanks for the 800x600 tip. I'll remember that.

I used a bottle of Truefuel that I just opened... The gas from last season that may or may not have sat in the bowl is gas station 91 with stabil in it. Maybe I didn't have enough stabil... I need to find a website/app that helps me find ethanol free fuel. I'd rather not go to a marina but maybe I'll have to.

I'll try the banging trick tonight.

[bennybmn]

I made the mistake of buying a cub cadet snow blower.  It bucks like a mule.  I purchased some after market skids for it, and that helps.  If you are blowing a paved or concrete area, it should not be too bad.  My Troy Built, both MTD products, did not buck.

I have a paved driveway. Works well for me luckily.

On mine, there is a fuel shut off between the choke and the throttle.

I don't see an obvious cutoff... I feel like all small engines should have one like a motorcycle!

When priming, push in the primer bulb and hold for about three seconds, release for about 3 more.  Do this about 5 times.  Don't forget to hold the primer bulb in.  On other engines, I have simply pumped the primer.  Cub cadet instructions say to "Hold" the primer bulb.  It does make a difference.

I generally start with a full choke and a low, very low throttle.  If I have the throttle very high, it does not like to fire.

Good advice on priming. I noticed the bulb has a hole in it, like a manufactured hole, not a defect. Maybe it requires a finger on there for suction. I'll try the throttle thing too.
Thank you all!

[Mr_Mike]

Since its easy to get to the float bowl, remove it and inspect the fuel quality. Remove it over a clean container and let the fuel settle. If you see any fuel separation, you may have water in the fuel or gum or other crap. Now that you can see the float, check its function by gently pushing up and verifying it has some range of motion. This will also likely fix a stuck needle valve. If its not too much trouble, remove the carb and spray everything internal with carb cleaner. I'd also remove the jets and spray everything you can see and check that all the little holes are clear.

Check the plug. replace if its fouled or wet.

I'd recommend draining the fuel and replacing with fresh. Just put the fuel in your car, it won't hurt the car.

My Honda generators don't like stale fuel. But their carbs have very tiny passages.

In the future, run the tank dry at the end of the season. Put in half a cup or so of Truefuel and run it dry again.