Work bench needs a finish

[Tynyyn]

So, I just finished building a workbench and it is waiting to either be left alone or have some sort of finish applied to it.  The wood I used is maple for the top and stretchers and walnut for the legs.  Should I use clear coat, BLO, or stain it with the same color as with the screw on the right side?  I tested samples of walnut and that turned out nice but rather dark, and a piece of maple.  The stain on the maple was rather splotchy and I just didn't like it.  I tried BLO on the screw but it looked exactly like the stain.  Maybe just a clear coat would be the way to go, IDK.  You guys have any ideas?

[AgGEM]

A very nice bench!
Ag

[cams2705]

I used a mix of turpentine, BLO, and paraffin wax.  I shaved about a half block (I used the stuff from the grocery store in the canning aisle) into 16 oz. of turpentine and let it dissolve over a week.  I filtered it through a cheesecloth into 16 oz. of BLO and then applied it to the bench.  The turpentine has a strong smell, so I advise to be in a well ventilated area.  The dissolved wax will sink into the pores of the bench and prevent glue from sticking and the oil will add some protection without leaving a slick film finish.  After a few weeks of curing, give it a good buffing with a dry cloth.

BTW, you can also use the paraffin to lubricate the wood vice screws.

[fredhargis]

I used a mix of turpentine, BLO, and paraffin wax.  I shaved about a half block (I used the stuff from the grocery store in the canning aisle) into 16 oz. of turpentine and let it dissolve over a week.  I filtered it through a cheesecloth into 16 oz. of BLO and then applied it to the bench.  The turpentine has a strong smell, so I advise to be in a well ventilated area.  The dissolved wax will sink into the pores of the bench and prevent glue from sticking and the oil will add some protection without leaving a slick film finish.  After a few weeks of curing, give it a good buffing with a dry cloth.

BTW, you can also use the paraffin to lubricate the wood vice screws.

That is exactly what I used as well. This finish is easily repairable and/or renewed, and glue pops right off of it if you spill some. +3 or more to the odor problem, I had to air my shop out for 3 days after I used it though some guys seem to like the turpentine smell. You could probably use MS instead of the turpentine, but I've never tried it. Here's a fairly detailed article on how to do it, though Cam's cliff notes version is spot on. I've used this not only on my hard maple bench top, but also on MDF (assembly table) and it works well on both. The mdf did take a second application.

[Kansas City Fireslayer]

I have a wet sanded danish oil finish on my hard maple bench.  The finish is around 10 years old and glue still pops off with no problems.  Danish oil comes straight out of the can and it's easy to use.  I wouldn't use a clear coat film finish.  You want the bench to grab the wood.  You could always add paste wax if you decide you want it slicker.  An oil based finish is going to splotch the maple to a certain degree.  It's a bench, embrace the splotch.

[Paul K. Murphy]

Stain it with a mixture of time and work.