#17
I'm just about ready to install the acrylic surround on my tub to shower conversion. I see this as the point of no return since I have to glue the shower panel to the studs.

Incoming pipes were CPVC. I used sharkbites to change over to copper and sweated in the shower diverter, etc. Seemed simple enough even for my first time. The lines have been leak tested.

Anyway, am I missing anything? The original access panel was just for the tub spout area so I might cut an access panel behind the diverter. I was also thinking about adding some blocking underneath the diverter and securing the incoming copper pipes with some saddle straps for extra rigidity.

Anything else?

Thanks,
Paul
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#18
well IMO you are missing plenty.  You don't have chambers to prevent hammer and it appears none of the pipes are clamped accept at the fixtures.  There are bushings to isolate the pipes where they pass through wood that protect the pipe and reduce noise 
https://www.ferguson.com/product/sioux-c...aQodk7AOcQ
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women have trouble understanding Trump's MAGA theme because they had so little involvement in making America great the first time around.

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#19
I did something very similar last year. No stand pipes(to minimize water hammer) on the tub/shower, since there are stand pipes for the sink just 5' away.

If the copper is actually touching the framing, those insulators are a good idea.
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#20
Thanks for the input.

There is good clearance around the two supplies but I'll still see what I can do to insulate them if they ever were to rub. I'll also add clamps to secure the pipes better.

Regarding the hammer arrestors...is past performance any indication of future performance? None of my faucets/spouts have arrestors. The previous tub didn't hammer and none of my other faucets hammer. I guess it would be a shame to find out after the fact that, though. Something I read about the arrestors is that over time they get water logged. So these are essentially a consumable item?
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#21
draining the system resets them.  They might not be as necessary as I was taught but I was taught to put them in and I have been in houses that could have used them so i never questioned the need.  The plastic straps I linked help quiet the pipes in addition to holding them in place
Phydeaux said "Loving your enemy and doing good for those that hurt you does not preclude killing them if they make that necessary."


Phil Thien

women have trouble understanding Trump's MAGA theme because they had so little involvement in making America great the first time around.

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#22
Have you double checked hot vs cold direction?

Not that I'd have a problem . . .
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Wild Turkey
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#23
I don't know about your area of the country but in Ohio shark bite fittings are for use in an accessible locations only. I have seen them leak.
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#24
I always insulate pipes if I can. To keep heat in and combat any possible condensation on the pipes and it reduces noise. I also like to insulate that wall because there is allot of noise transmitted to the other side. 

      Water hammer arrestor are always nice but rarely used in fact I have never seen one installed in In a house or commercial here. The ones mentioned are just a pipe going up from the fitting with a cap on it. The air will eventually be absorbed into the water but like he said if the hammer happens you can drain the system and the air will get back in there. Course you need an easy way to drain the system and most houses in the us don't have a basement so it's harder to do.

         I would have used glue to thread connections on the pvc and the same on the copper end if I didn't just do it all with pvc. I have also seen the push on fittings leak but have seen more threaded connections and compression leak than anything else. Those push on ones that leaked were due to poor application ie sanding with too rough of paper or movement of the joint. I used to be very sceptical of them but they have a long history in europe like pex does and iI'm not worried about them anymore. 

          I'm not a fan of using cpvc for potable water but it's allowable in warm climates. Just not my first choice.
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#25
(01-07-2017, 06:53 PM)TheCabinetmaker Wrote: I don't know about your area of the country but in Ohio shark bite fittings are for use in an accessible locations only. I have seen them leak.

I'm glad I read all of the replies first because this is what I was going to suggest you NOT do.  I have seen them leak as well.  I use them for emergency repairs but eventually go back and use soldered fittings.
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#26
As far as the sharkbites go, there are some in my old house feeding the washing machine, and others capping lines to a bathrrom that I removed. That was supposed to be 'temporary' 7 years ago.... Where I put the washer, I was going to move it later but never did. they haven't had a problem. Granted they are in a dropped basement ceiling, so therefore are accessible, but I've not had issues with them.
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